How are the lengths measured, threads or top to bottom ?

Never mind, you answered your previous post
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@PBADAD:

I actually have a pair of brand new cabelas boots that have the rubber spots on the felt bottoms meant for the cheap studs they provide with the boots... as soon as I saw these boots this winter, I knew my vision of losing the 2 pounds of heavy rubber was closer than ever... I knew they would stay put in the felt alone, but when I saw the rubber, I knew that would work even better. Did you use the wearbars?

I believe the threads are 1/2" and they are 46$ for 48 spikes... I am actually considering a bit of epoxy on the threads prior to screwing them in, but from your experience, is this necessary? Did you have any fall out entirely? This is definitely worth a shot... worst case you can always take them out and go back to the ankle weights... but I know its going to work... can non-club members view your article? Thanks for your reassuring input!

I have been thinking about trying this product down at the canal this season. A friend of mine discovered these and bought a couple of cases of them to share with our iceboat club (New England Ice Yacht Association Web Page) this past winter so I bought a pair.

Traditionally I use the stableicers for iceboating but you have to replace the studs at least once a season as we regularly walk back and forth from pavement to ice setting up.

Initial testing of these have proven positive for our usage. I am not sure how they would work out for surfcasting or canal use but since I already own a pair it won't hurt to try.

Thought I would share the info as they are easy on and off and reasonably priced. I think the retail we paid was around $45.00 a pair. We used the diamond grip variation.

KAKO | Ice Cleats & Winter Traction | Slip & Fall Protection

http://images.cabelas.com/is/image/c...2?$main-Large$

These are the boots I got... felt soles, rubber spots to receive threaded spikes... boots are light, flexible, and under 60 bucks... going to be so much better swimming to a rock without the k-5000's

There are many products out there that will keep you from slipping on rocks... However, I am in search of a specific set up that suits my personal preferences and conditions I fish in... *light for long walks, * long spikes to penetrate thick weed, * convenience of not having to strap on Korkers all the time, * ability to swim in them. Sometimes its a pain to search and search and try stuff and waste money on experiments, but when you finally find the perfect fit you have been looking for, its worth it...

I'm just going to ride around on Eben's back.

http://sarcasticgamer.com/wp/wp-cont...er-blaster.jpg

IP those are the boots I mentioned. Light weight. I have those in thestream cleat. They wern't available last summer else those would of been on my foot. PM me your e-mail address. I sent you a copy of the article.

fished with those boots all last season and never had a problem with them, not even a stud missing

I use the above boots, with the carbide spikes. I've been very pleased. They stay light even when wet.

Anyone have any luck finding a shoe rather then a boot that will hold these studs? Simms are a no go as they don't do the stream thread with their shoes. Something like the Korker torrent would be great but they don't make em with the interchangeable soles...

Probably the worst business plan you could present would be to come up with something that a fat guy could strap to his feet and jump up and down and walk around in two hundred hours a year and then to offer a lifetime replacement warranty to go with it. Might as well take out a loan to open a Jewish deli in Baghdad.

F!U! You said you'd keep it hush hush!

maybe get some strap on roller skate attachments?

pbadad did you have any problems with with the stock studs being a different height when you are out on the rocks?

I don't use the studs that came with the original boots. Just the snowmobile carbide studs.

3/4" SS Bolts with lock nuts.
Duct taped to my boot were the best for stability, grip and durability.

Plus, added workout. could lose 10lbs a night sweating on a long walk and build some serious calf muscles!

losing weight is over-rated... Obesity = status

I weigh 165... hard times

pete do you have both the studs, the ones that came with the ultralights and the wearbars? just trying to fig out how much of a difference in height it would be to throw some of the wearbars in there.

havent done it yet. new boots, wearbars are in the mail... But intend on using only the wearbars... not the small screws that came with the boots. Since the WB's are longer, the short screws wont even touch the rocks and are just along for the ride. If you already put in the small screws, I'm certain you can remove them, and put the wearbars in their place, since they have a wider thread than the provided screws. The screws that come with the boots are good for a few outings, (or trout) but the quickly round out and become very slippery... i tried sheet metal screws last year... worked ok for a few nights... I intend on putting 20 spikes on each boot... as soon as I get them, I'll take photos of my boots before, during install, and after in this thread... should be by the weekend.

ya i have the older model boots that came with the studs already in them, might try just pulling thoes out or just getting a new pair

hahahha thanks man, u always know how to make the big guy feel good..

just checked my boots and the studs, sure enough rounded out pretty good like you said. glad you started this thread before i learned the hard way.

ivan ski, if the only reason you don't like korkers is because the soles pop off and you want a permanent studs the is a easy solution.
Bolt down the sole and replace the interchangeable stud soles when they wear out.

I have a question, what stud types and size can you add to an existing interchangeable stud sole without piercing the main boot inner sole

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http://wearbars.com/images/Product/TLS500-48.jpg

1/2 inch wear bars... just like these, but shorter threads...

and bolting just the sole of k-5000's to my boot is a good idea, but you would need alot of bolts all the way around the boot... any gap greater than inch or two and sand will pry its way in between, creating lumps (I'm speculating here) but good idea as well. I love hearing ideas...

Sorry for the confusion but I was referring to fastening the interchangeable soles to the "korker boots" not the korker sandal K-5000 to an ordinary wading boot.

What is the depth of the interchangeable stud soles of the "korker boots", hopefully greater then 1/2 inch ?
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just got the simms headwaters and am putting on the 1/2" wearbars-could be the answer...i hope.

walk in the dirt on the side of the road...:jump1:

Don you won't be dissappointed.

Just tell them you are demoing a new method of lawn aeration.

Boots
 

22 wearbars in each boot. i was going to put 2 more right in front of the 5 in the back but for some reason the boots didn't want to take them. all other studs went in fine without any problems. at first i was worried about the studs that went into the felt would sit higher but you can crank them down to just about the same height. you just have to be careful not to over tighten them. great idea by pete and bill!!! :cheers:

Nice job. The height difference is so slight I don't see a problem. I noticed that when I did mine but it wasn't an issue. With the 3/4' thread length studs you have the option to add a s.s. washer beneath the stud on the receptacle hole to further extend the stud out to match the sole mounted stud hieght. I will mention one caution, when standing on extremely heavy bubble weed check your stability by grinding for a grip. Thats the only negative difference between the ss screw modified Korkers and the studded boots. With the out of box Korkers the studs I did the same as the the studs are the same height.Good luck with the modification.