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I think if I where charter and allowed guest to set out the lines I'd be using basket ball hoops! :)
I use a mini swivel between wire and leader with a tiny shrink wrap over the wire wrap side,,,, with an oversized roller. Works well for me and with a little instruction works for the non fisher types that frequent my vessel. :) Same for lead, no roller What a trouble maker that Tail Chacer is, :devil2: Flat on back with sciatica, Gup |
Interesting with the shrinkwrap over the HWT to the swivel. I also use those small in line heavy duty swivels. I have always been taught to take a couple cranks or let out a little all the time to help eliminate fatigue on the wire. Then again I run straight stainless, not monel, and jig with the rod, not hand jig. In the end the boat fishes the jigs much more than the fisherman anyways. For those who know how to work a rip, its night and day from someone dropping wire back and snapping.
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I run one of those swivels to attach my leadcore to the leader on my tube set up. Lots of movement with the tube so it helps with line twist. I used to use an Albright knot but I like this better. Just have to be a little careful with good fish taking you straight down pulling the swivel back out thru the guides but you get used to it.
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What Beamie said BT857S I've been using them since the 80's. CMS just built 2 for me a couple years ago $180 each
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Thanks guys the advice was great and I appreciate all the experienced wire guys giving their point of view. Sorry for causing such a riff... :uhuh:
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Pretty normal for the winter time
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I actually switched from the spro hd's the the spro 80 lb power swivels. They go through a little easier. Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device |
Pretty sure that is what I use too. The 2 piece swivel, stream line, one.
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I have a few left in the overhead of the basement. I have noticed some of the places I buy blanks this is no longer a choice. I have heard that this blank is the same as the 8' with a foot cut off the top, so really is still available. ALL eglass, takes a beating, no graphite..... |
Whats do you think of a Penn Senator 3065 40/60 for wire. This set up would be designated to jigging 4-6oz bucktails?
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It has a rollers at the first set of eyes then at the tip. It is a little stiff but hoping it would be at the cost of losing fish.
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I don't fish with either very much any more but have all the gear still. Like others I use the penn wire set up with a roller tip for wire line. I think there are better choices if you start from scratch and make a custom but I would go with a roller anytime you use wire. there is too much drag of the Carboloy tip on the wire and it makes for uneven retrieve.
The only lead core set up I have does not have a roller. The rod is a (believe it or not) a heavy Tsunami boat rod that has a soft action. It was not expensive (70 bucks I think) and has has worked well for the lures I pulled with it (spoons and tubes mainly.) Last year I dusted off the down rigger and used that quite a bit at times. I caught a lot of fish with it esp when the action slowed. The only thing I didn't try but plan to this season is to use it more offshore. I think it will work for tuna and wahoo esp with the depth control features it has. (it has its own transducer and you can tell it to maintain a certain depth or maintain a depth off the bottom or to zig zag thru a depth range) Overall I find they complicate fishing to a degree but they work. If you slow troll a live bunker or squid 4' off the bottom it almost always get eaten by something. I want to try the same with a small bluefish or rigged ballyhoo offshore on a big game set up this season. |
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