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The auger on the 1800 and the 1800r is the same size. Walking on flat rocks and roads will not test the studs. Rocky uneven ground where you may only catch a couple studs is the way test them. I rolled the 1800rs when I tested them that's why i went with the 1800s in the head waters. Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device |
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The grip studs are/were the most superior design for their purpose. Did he lose studs? Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device |
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Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device |
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You just couldn't wait to bust my balls. Could you ?? Didn't lose studs but they rolled and created little areas under the sole that allowed them to be loose and move easily by touch. Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device |
Ordering a big batch for the shop today, so we'll have them in stock and available locally shortly.
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Pete, when we put the CSA order together the rep (Colin) was looking for local shops that might be interested. I gave them the Edge's number (on a short list.) Hope they (the studs) bring some business your way. He is very keen on the potential market share their product could grab here.
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Thanks Scratch - putting the order together with him now. |
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Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device |
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We now have these in stock. 1800's in 50 packs, 100 packs, 50 packs with install tool, and the install tool individually.
Grip Studs http://www.edgeangling.com/miva/grap...00-50-pack.jpg |
How are the "Felt Ultralites by Cabelas"holding up to the grip studs #1800 and are they tearing up the "hard rubber pods" on the bottom side of the sole ?
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After a years worth of use, how are these holding up? I just picked up a new pair of boots and it doesn't look like I'll be able to use my beloved Orvis studs on them (not tall enough).
Is there a consensus better option- grip studs or wearbars? Anyone tried the Goat Heads? |
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Buy the 1" ware bars and cut them to fit. The heel (ultralights) will take the full stud and you need to cut about an 1/8" off for the other areas. Epoxy (5200 marine) on the threads a preference. I prefer not to glue because it makes it easier to change them out if needed. Just my opinion. I don't fish as much as I want to (30-50 trips) but have had my boots for 3 seasons now and just changed out studs for this year. I fit the "appropriate tester" height and weight stats from above... |
I'm liking the grip studs. Pricey but I haven't lost any so I'm sure I can transfer them if my Simm's start to fall apart. I heard of a few guys having issues but I clock in at 165 pounds and haven't even bent one.
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Mine held up fine all year in various locations supported my fat ass no problem. Didn't lose or bend one.
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Gripstuds all the way....and you can use washers with them.
The shanks on the wearbars corrode and snap after a season. When I was using wearbars, i constantly had to replace and tighten them. The gripstuds...set em and forget em. I did not have to replace one. This is the washer, gripstud, and combo after the washer is twisted up the auger. The head of the spike is about 1/16 or 1/32 bigger than the opening or the washer. The washer hole diameter is about 1/4"...the outer diameter is about 11/16". http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psd9f2b8ab.jpg http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps912be974.jpg the boots...simms freestones. Great boots. My last pair are still functional but are backups now...over 5 years old. Other than the felt on these...the uppers show nearly no wear at all. http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps543b9972.jpg http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psc943cf6e.jpg when i set my spikes...I did not predrill. I soak the felt in water. Place a drop of gorilla glue on the spot I want to place the spike. let it soak in a little. drill in the spike. The gorilla glue expands into the fibers of the felt and makes a much more rigid anchor than just the felt alone. I think the felt fibers may stretch a little when wet, so the glue makes it a little more stable. |
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FYI - Grip Studs 1800s 50 pack marked down 25% ($70 to $52.50) right now at Salt Water Edge.
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