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I don't use the studs that came with the original boots. Just the snowmobile carbide studs.
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3/4" SS Bolts with lock nuts.
Duct taped to my boot were the best for stability, grip and durability. Plus, added workout. could lose 10lbs a night sweating on a long walk and build some serious calf muscles! |
losing weight is over-rated... Obesity = status
I weigh 165... hard times |
pete do you have both the studs, the ones that came with the ultralights and the wearbars? just trying to fig out how much of a difference in height it would be to throw some of the wearbars in there.
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havent done it yet. new boots, wearbars are in the mail... But intend on using only the wearbars... not the small screws that came with the boots. Since the WB's are longer, the short screws wont even touch the rocks and are just along for the ride. If you already put in the small screws, I'm certain you can remove them, and put the wearbars in their place, since they have a wider thread than the provided screws. The screws that come with the boots are good for a few outings, (or trout) but the quickly round out and become very slippery... i tried sheet metal screws last year... worked ok for a few nights... I intend on putting 20 spikes on each boot... as soon as I get them, I'll take photos of my boots before, during install, and after in this thread... should be by the weekend.
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ya i have the older model boots that came with the studs already in them, might try just pulling thoes out or just getting a new pair
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ivan ski, if the only reason you don't like korkers is because the soles pop off and you want a permanent studs the is a easy solution.
Bolt down the sole and replace the interchangeable stud soles when they wear out. I have a question, what stud types and size can you add to an existing interchangeable stud sole without piercing the main boot inner sole Posted from my i Phone/Mobile device |
http://wearbars.com/images/Product/TLS500-48.jpg
1/2 inch wear bars... just like these, but shorter threads... and bolting just the sole of k-5000's to my boot is a good idea, but you would need alot of bolts all the way around the boot... any gap greater than inch or two and sand will pry its way in between, creating lumps (I'm speculating here) but good idea as well. I love hearing ideas... |
Sorry for the confusion but I was referring to fastening the interchangeable soles to the "korker boots" not the korker sandal K-5000 to an ordinary wading boot.
What is the depth of the interchangeable stud soles of the "korker boots", hopefully greater then 1/2 inch ? Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device |
just got the simms headwaters and am putting on the 1/2" wearbars-could be the answer...i hope.
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Don you won't be dissappointed.
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Boots
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22 wearbars in each boot. i was going to put 2 more right in front of the 5 in the back but for some reason the boots didn't want to take them. all other studs went in fine without any problems. at first i was worried about the studs that went into the felt would sit higher but you can crank them down to just about the same height. you just have to be careful not to over tighten them. great idea by pete and bill!!! :cheers:
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Nice job. The height difference is so slight I don't see a problem. I noticed that when I did mine but it wasn't an issue. With the 3/4' thread length studs you have the option to add a s.s. washer beneath the stud on the receptacle hole to further extend the stud out to match the sole mounted stud hieght. I will mention one caution, when standing on extremely heavy bubble weed check your stability by grinding for a grip. Thats the only negative difference between the ss screw modified Korkers and the studded boots. With the out of box Korkers the studs I did the same as the the studs are the same height.Good luck with the modification.
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Let us know if the studs stay put after a few outings. I've also been looking at those boots. DZ |
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i think billys referring to the difference in the amount of exposed metal between the two...the boot stud vs the end of the bolt plus the nut on the converted korkers..
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John it sounds like the korker studs have less service area (sharper point) which leads to a better pearcing of the bubble weed then the SS bolts which have a larger surface area.
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any rock i get on in the surf i usually always grind the surface just to see what im dealing with. i make sure to get a good purchase not only to cross some eyes but for when the three sisters come.
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just got in from the first time using them. boots are very sticky on the rocks and i felt pretty confident with them on if a wave came. we will have to see how the studs hold up throughout the season but i think these are definitely a winner.
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Thats great. The comfort and performance of these studded boots will bring pleasure to those rock hopping nights. Keep us posted. I have a few members going this route and they also have the same reasons for changing.
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i orderd one size larger than my reg shoe size and they fit great. i hate when they tell you to order the same size as ur reg shoes, it never works.
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I have both sizes in the boots. the one 1 size larger fit much nicer. Both work but I prefer the bigger one. cabelas says to order your shoe size LLbean says 1 size larger. keep in mind I wear size 14. There isn't many options. guidewear and ultra lights in 15 fit great. The ultra lights in 14 are ok w/ my breathables socking foot but the neoprene stocking foot has a 3.5 mm foot so it's tight. John if you need boots to thread the studs in go with the light cabelas ultra light boot. I've used them 7 years with great service. I have the the newer ones 2 yrs. I wish I bought the ultra lights in 15 but at the time last year they were not available in my cavernous size. The guide wear boot was. My buddy says I should of just studded the box!!!!!!
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simms headwaters w/ wearbars :love: lightweight when wet and traction city...
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A few close up shots of my boots with wearbars... looking forward to fishing without the ankle weights!
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/...abe43632_o.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1424/...0d487c4e_o.jpg 22 spikes per boot (for now) 14 went into the rubber spots meant for stream screws, the rest were screwed straight into the felt... if you are looking to go this route and have felt bottoms without the fancy new rubber spots made to receive screws, dont worry... to be honest, the screws actually feel like they hold and tighten up better directly into the felt... http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/...7298bc7c_o.jpg |
Nice looking . You used washers to bring up the stud height in the rubber receivers?
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yes, in an attempt to equalize the height
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About Wader Studs | Premium Studs For Wader Boots |
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25+ nights on narragansett's rocky coast, 4 trips to Block, Not one crushed spike, not one lost spike... I will never wear Korkers again... If you are wearing K-5000's after reading this thread, you're crazy...
ask yourself this question: is your personal comfort, as well as the added convenience of less gear to pack worth 46 dollars? Then get on it... There is no more question or doubt if they work, hold up, or compare to korkers... they have been rigorously used and abused by at least a dozen guys on here. Unless korkers actually makes a boot that has threaded receivers for their spikes directly built into the sole, I believe wearbars will quickly become the new standard in a few seasons... I tell so many people about them you'd think I was getting a commission! Do yourself a favor, order them YESTERDAY |
I agree. I went Don's route with the Simms headwaters and wearbars and have been very happy. They've held up great and are more comfortable than I thought they would be. I did find it better going in dry rock when I removed the one stud under the ball of my foot (big toe side).
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THanks guys - that was what I was looking for - the earlier link didn't look just right. |
John,
I probably outweigh those guys by 50-75 #s @ 230. I have torn out some studs and rolled some. Some of this is due to my boots, LLbean rivertreads, but I think it is also pounds per stud. Mine are wearbars. All that said I still like them better than Korkers and will not go back. The simms boots that I looked at have stiffer soles and should have less roll problems. |
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