Starting to think about redoing the kitchen. Wish you lived closer.

Nice, but I hate the look of the newel post on the stair tread. We always used to mount it on the face of the tread and landing on the floor.

Trevier... I value your opinion and response... feedback is always welcome.

Guppy.....thanks for the thumbs up....if you zoom in too close you will see that nothing I do is ever "perfect". But always at least adequate.:kewl:

The customer, who I have not met in person, provided a small vague picture of what they wanted for the fireplace and built-ins. No other discussion or plan, so I had to design and build my interpretation. It will all be painted except for the base cabinet tops, which they wanted stained oak to match the flooring.

more stairs......lot of hours to get it done right.

My knees hurt just looking at it... :-)

My orthopedic doctor told me that the arthritis in my hands will get progressively worse, cortisone injections work but wear off within a few months. Can't move my thumbs and wrists without pain, shooting pain at night without even moving them.

He also said that I have the knees of a forty year old ;), and that they should carry me along with no problems....i have never worn knee pads...tried them once.... too uncomfortable.

Stairs again......nothing special about these....but most of the stairs we do use 5/4" thick treads which finish out to just over 1"thick. To save on material costs we are switching to 3/4" thick....when the oak cove moulding gets applied under the tread nosing it gives the appearance of being thicker. It is so much easier to cut and fit these thinner treads too!

stop working, albys are in, you’ll have more time now that you’re using 3/4 treads, right?

I always liked the 5/4 treads. I think they are stronger and give a better look. Are those rabbitted risers your using? If so I assume the tread has a tapered piece on the back edge so it fits in nice and tight? Nice system they are. Used to get all my millwork from van lumber out of bellingham mass.

I agree.....the 5/4 are stronger and look better....but 99% of our customers would not even notice. Yep...the tread is rabbeted to slide into the groove in the riser...and tapered to tighten when driven back with a heavy rubber mallet. I did a lot of business with Van Lumber back when I was building custom homes.....always good quality stuff.

HAha...the faster I go the more work they give me.....calling in a day off today to try for albies...

I remember a 2 million dollar house we were doing back in 01. Trim package was over a 150k, everything was cherry. Van shows up to deliver with one guy. One friggin guy to deliver the stuff. My dad laid into our salesman for allowing this. He told my dad van doesn't want to pay for another guy to go out on deliveries. Gave him jon vans number, man it wasn't pretty I can tell you that.

A delivery guy drops a load of roof trusses on my job, and comes over for to me to sign the slip. As I'm doing so I see his truck rolling slowly away and ask him if someone is with him. He turns to run towards the vehicle, trips over a pile of dirt and falls into a puddle of mud. Well, I could see he wasn't going to get up right away so I take off running after the truck to see if I could stop it before something bad happened.
Luckily it veered off the side of the road and came to rest without hitting anything.:doh:

I like that spindle jig, I'm stealing that.

Good eye!
Yup...its also the pitch block with the stair angles....and helps with post height variables..
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Dark stained cabinets are a bitch......every speck of dust and the tiniest of scratches show through. The finished flooring is 3/8" thick engineered hardwood.

nice work, but not my type of cabinets. I'll stick with my cherry cabinets with a natural finish.

Trev....I worked for years installing commercial millwork in banks, libraries, and country clubs, cherry was the wood of choice, and one of my favorite woods to work with. Like most wood, cherry has a distinct smell. I believe I could be blindfolded and identify most common hard and softwoods by their aroma.....:hihi:

Door pull jig....accurate and efficient. I use a 3/32 bit to mark them...then 3/16 to finish them. That keeps the hole in the jig from becoming larger and wandering.

Good idea doing it that way
I always have to make more since they wear out, I’ll have to try the smaller diameter first then drill with the 3/16

I think it can be almost as fast if I have two drills set up and swap out while still holding the jig in my left hand.
But I have so much scrap maple available, it is easy to make more.

I have made them for drawer front pulls also, it’s faster than measuring and marking.
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I used to make them with scrap lexan
Holds up better
I used to get it free from glass shop I used
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I mark every door with the small bit before changing to 3/16 bit.
I have also used a vix bit ...self centering...to do the marking, and puts no wear on the jig

For drawer pulls it's very different... I have methods that speed up that process without an actual jig.

I have been in the home construction business for over 45 years.......never....ever been busier. We are selling new houses to first time home buyers at a rate that is hard to fathom. I attribute this to consumer confidence and optimism...but I'm just a simple carpenter.....not an economist.
Unfortunately the construction industry jobs created go mostly to immigrants with questionable legal status.