Hey no sweat. FYI I found a lawsuit against Nutec in my search and if I remember right, it had something to do with the stripper.

Any info you pass along is appreciated.

I totally believe it, it worked so damn good it there had to be somthing wrong with it. Figures .

ICI Dulox Providence 401 732 8999 Call them and ask for Nutec, they will tell you they do not sell it, but have somthing else that works as good, this is what they are useing now. He could not tell me the name off the top of his head, but it is somthing like strip -off or strip-ease or somthing to that effect.

I bought the Take-Off from a vendor in Northampton, MA last night. I got it home and put it on a 4"x4" test patch. In about 30 minutes I came back and took off the 3-4 layers of bottom paint. It came off pretty darn easy. I will be doing a much larger area on Saturday before the rain comes. I will try to take some before and after pics. Right now the hull looks pretty ugly with flaking bottom paint all over.

Sweet man, it sounds like how the nutec worked and i bet it won;t kill you as fast hahah.

Hi,
On a 28 Penn Yan and a 20 Grady I used Peel Away and thought that it was great. It took off multiple layers of bottom paint. Getting the whole job done is still a lot of work. I used 1 5 gallon jug ($90 home depot) on the grady and almost 10 gals on the Penn Yan.

john

I used about 2/3 of a gallon on 1/2 of the hull (23 foot boat). I was amazed how well it worked. I would say it took of 90% of the bottom paint. I believe that what is still on the hull is only there because I did not put the stuff on thick enough, and or let it sit long enough to work.

I have found that where a very thin film of bottom paint residue is left, 800 grit wet paper takes right off.

Sounds like you did great! Remember barrior coat when putting the new stuff on.

You notice this stuff you only used a gallon or so? the home depot stuff you have to use 5 times as much because it is not specifically designed to break the adhesion chemical used in bottom paint like this stuff is. Just like Nutec was.

I won't be putting any bottom paint back on. This one will sit on a trailer. I get two advantages. One I don't have to pay the outrageous slip fee, and two Ican fill up cheaper at the roadside gas station.

I plan on wet sanding and then using a polisher with compound and then waxing. Not sure how much of that will be done this year.

Leave it to sandman to post an itty, bitty, less than sexy question like:

"anyone ever use that tape like stuff the is suppose to peel away old bottom paint? Does it work?"

that leads to 3 pages of in-depth discussion. This will probably by 5 or 6 pages long before we've fully investigated all of the removal techniques, coating types, application techniques, environmental and health concerns, outsourcing vs. do it yourself etc. etc. etc.

I have "thread" envy!

Can't wait to watch his next post on "Dock Lines: Nylon vs. Polypropylene; strength vs cost; sink vs float; what do you use and how does it affect your productivity in the bedroom" grow to be copyrighted and published in Basic Patrick's next OTW article.

Cover's coming off this weekend boys! Gotta buy a new trailer hitch though. Couldn't get the old one off the Blazer.

Hehehe,

Got the boat back, had the yard remove the bottom paint (turns out they sodablasted it!) and then they properly preped, and primed it and put a nice fresh coat of ablative on there. It looks great. I have not gotten the bill :doh: yet but I could not have done a job like. Looks real good. I can tell the paint is really sticking by just looking at it, it is nice and smooth now.:hf1:

Tomorrow I will install the new compass (old one craked and leaked), re-install electronics and clean her up (needs a little TLC), then re-load the gear early in the week. Gotta get out there the Mac's and Tog are in gear man! I know someone who has already caught a fluke! Also, gotta get those pots in the water!

Gas prices just suck right now. Thank God I have a full tank of gas from last season! I wonder how long that will last?

Just a quick follow up. I used the chemical stripper on the port side of the hull, and I used MTC's chisel method on the starboard side.

I like the chisel method much better. The paint really comes off, but you have to be careful or you can gouge the gel coat. The chemical peeler worked, but when you go to scrape it off it smears and leaves a black streak. The chisel removes all of the bottom paint.

I bought a 2.5-3" chisel. I think the bigger chisel helps you to keep from rolling it and digging the corner of the chisel into the gel coat. The boat now has a smooth bottom, but there is still evidence of bottom paint in the areas where the hull was prepped with a DA sander prior to bottom painting. I've been using wet paper in the highly visible areas up in the bow, but may just leave it if the water warms up here quick.

bottom paint removal
 

Hi,
I used peel away on 2 boats to remove multiple layers of bottom paint. I think it is the easiest way other than hiring someone to do the baking soda blaster. I used it on a 20' Grady and a 28' Penn Yan.
I bought it at Home Depot for ~$90 for 5 gals. It comes with the paper, and when I ran out of the supplied paper I used wax paper which worked pretty well. The boat supply stores sell the same stuff for about $150/5 gals.

After I stripped each boat, I put on barrier coat before bottom paint.

Good luck.

Guys,
Well the soda blasting and barrier coat is done and it looks great! All it needs is paint and I'm ready to rock 'n roll. Bottom of the boat is as amooth as a baby's keister. All in all, except for en extra week and half of time, it worked out real well.

I did mine by sanding when I first got it. After that , I went about 15 years using hard vinyl bottom paint. Great stuff and really fast. Then they outlawed the tri-butyl-tin antifouling aganet that made the vinyls so good and I went to ablative for the last 8 years . With the ablative , I went to every other year for coating.

Get under there with a grinder and some 80grit won't take as long as you think I took at least six coats off in two hours right down to the epoxy barrier coat. Finish sand with some 150 and its ready to go!

IF you sand it I suggest getting an 8" Makita with a soft pad, NOT a rubber backing, just a soft pad set up for sticky back discs. You can lay waste to it in short time, but it is back breaking.