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Found this some place.
"Boring end grain material with a brad point drill with outlining spurs can be a problem because the spurs are not needed. The spurs drag in end grain. Modify the drill by grinding the spurs off following the existing back clearance. Then, regrind the cutting edge with a 7 to 15 degree angle from the O.D. of the drill, tilting downwards to the point, again following the existing back clearance. This is called an acme cut. Now the brad point enters the material followed by the outlining O.D. (where the spurs were), which sizes the hole without dragging." And... "Brad Point drills tend to run out (go off line) and burn in end grain because the spurs try to follow the grain. The Morris Wood Tool End Grain point does not have lips (spurs) and the clearance angle of the main cutting edges is changed slightly. This point bores straight and clean in most woods." I picked up 3 (3/16" x 6” OAL with 2-1/4” twist) for $25.59 including shipping. |
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With a hand grenade!:uhuh:
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Maybe i should bring my drill master to plugfest and do a show and tell.
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That thing is awesome! I have seen a couple of them!! AH and Fishdoc!!:uhuh:
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I know you have Larry.:uhuh:
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What is it? PIXS!!
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You show that Lou and you better make a few dozen to sell....with the first one going to me!!!:uhuh:
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:hidin:
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A couple of pics of my shop-in-progress. It's small, so it's hard to actually take pics inside the shop.
The gentleman in the picture is my dad, who -- despite cancer -- wants to build this with me. |
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I appreciate the advice. I like to gather a lot of opinions first when I'm doing something unfamiliar. Usually helps me until I build some momentum & confidence. |
Lookin good!! Your lucky to have a dad that is able and willing to help; treasure these moments and take plenty of pictures they are priceless.
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shop looks great. I can't offer much advice as my stuff is all over the place but something to keep in mind is don't set up anything so it's permanent.
Over time you will find certain tools to be a nuisance where they are and want to move them around and so on. |
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jeff |
You can build plugs in a shop that has windows??????!!!!!!!! :wall:
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I can offer a little advice,,,,, since most is still fresh in my mind after building a shop this spring and still working on it,,,,
Make sure you plan ahead and put lots of electrical outlets so you can move anything anywhere later on, Plan to vent a spraybooth outside lower the bench your lathe will be on so it is at a comfortable height to use If possible plan to vent your dust collector outside,,, I also built my benchtop out of double thickness MDF then put two coats of poly on it,,,, Most importantly enjoy the time with your dad,,,, you might get an idea or two from here http://www.striped-bass.com/Stripert...9393-shop.html |
The accepted standard is to place the center of the spindle at the height of your elbow above the floor with your arm loosely at your side.
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Oh no! I measured and it is best to mount it 4" higher to account for all the woodchips you'll soon be standing on. ;) |
You need more suction on that dust collector.:smash:
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or maybe a pet hampster to bed in the basket...
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The drying cabinet, spraybooth, finishing chest & lead smelting operation are all going in a 4' x 8' enclosure on the other side of the basement. I'm putting in an explosion-proof hood in there which vents to the outside. I think I'm OK with the dust collector -- it's one of those 1 micron cannister types. |
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BTW: That's a beautiful shop! |
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Man...I have a ways to go before getting this shop completed. Made the classic mistake of trying to hang 3/8" sheet rock on the ceiling. Sagged perciptively; took it all down.
I hope to be turning by early February...Looks like I'll be ready just in time for Plug Fest. |
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