I use the 3/4" threaded studs in my Cabelas guide boots. The threaded receiver uses a nip taken off the thread to about 1/2" then I thread the full length in the felt sole w/o the receiver. I use 21 in my boot sole. I think 13 in the receivers and the rest in the feltsole. OK for now.

Thanks for the suggestions.
Think I'll take out all my wearbars and re-thread w/ the epoxy. Might do it with the washers but I'm a bit scared about reducing the number of threads threads biting into the felt.
Not having to wear the korker's sandals over my boots has been life-changing. Really great!
By the way, I tried the Kold Kutter screws suggested in one of the posts
in this thread in another pair of boots and they're pretty grippy but the head-height is just not enough to bite through weed-covered rocks even after giving them a good scraping-off with the bottom of my boot.
I'm sure the'll be good for something, though.
Ivan, I will write to Korkers.

I just ordered the 3000B - 2 -20 packs and a tool to install / remove them. $80 with shipping. I'll have them tomorrow and will update on performance as soon can get them down to the canal for the east tide.

http://www.gripstuds.com/wader_studs/wader_studs.html

I look forward to hearing how the grip-studs hold up with the extra wide thread... As much as I will appreciate a performance review after a couple outings, the real valuable information lies in a review at the end of a season... how they hold up after 50+ nights. Please keep us posted!!!

The pro grip studs have an extra wide grip which is a positive feature. The problem would be that if a washer were to be used the inner diameter of the washer would be to large for such stud.
Let us know how it holds up as they are used throughout the season.
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I have a pair of Cabelas lightweight boots--felt soles w/places to screw in studs. I put Wearbars in and they're holding up well. You would think the boots are too clunky to swim in, but I manage OK. I also have a pair of Korker Torrents and a pair of the original lace on sandal types. I like the Cabelas modified w/Wearbars the best of the 3.

Guys,
Need to ask for more insight, especially from those who like ivanputski used epoxy on their wearbars.
I re-did my wearbars using the washers and used marine epoxy on the threads. Here's my question.
Did those of you who did this find that the epoxy "greased" the threads so that they wanted to keep spinning even after the screw was fully embedded?
The first time I put my wearbars in without epoxy they grabbed the felt and when fully sunk in became completely tight. Even after a few weeks of hard wear when some studs loosened a little, I could screw them back in tightly.
When I re-did them today I drilled them into virgin felt but with the epoxy they still spun after being fully threaded. I'm hoping once they're fully cured that they'll hold fast but I'm a little concerned.
What say you??
Thanks,
Andrew

Andrew - could be that you drilled too wide of the stud shank? Is it spinning after the epoxy dried was removed? Which epoxy are you using?

Guys, are you buying the 1/2" threaded studs? If you have thick boot sole , go to the 3/4" thread length. You appreciate the extra length when putting them in a virgin felt sole w/o a thread receptable. They may be a hair long for the receptable holes. Just touch them with a grinder about1/8". I did mine as most of you have read in the past w/3/4" w/o grinding first. Only a few made it barely through. With the addition of washers the added length is key. You can always make them shorter but you can't add length. On the subject of length, does Wearbar make a longer stud. There have been times that the 3/8" exposed length isn't enough to grip weed and secure your footing when a wave washes over. I would like a 1/2" external protrusion. The receptable for the studs are recessed. This makes the external stud exposure less than it is. They remain the length with the plain felt sole installation.

John,
I'm not drilling, I'm screwing the wearbars directly into the Korkers felt soles. The epoxy isn't dry yet so I don't know if they'll have more staying power than before. I used 3M 5200 marine adhesive.
Billy,
I think going with the 3/4" stud might be the way to go. I should have done a test-run with a plain screw before deciding on length.
I know these things are expensive but if the longer ones work it'll be worth it.
Has anyone tried using the Korkers lug sole as opposed to the felt for screwing into? The ones that come w/ the Cross-Current and Guide Boot?

BTW, with all the above said, the boots with studs is a HUGE improvement over wearing Korkers sandals over boots without studs. It just needs tweaking.

Again, thanks for your help. I really appreciate it.
Andrew

I'm getting ready to load my new ultralights and was wondering how the epoxy worked out? Did it help?

I used epoxy on mine and had the same issue with them spinning until they were completey dry.

I re did a few with clear locite plumbers epoxy and that seemed to work better.

I have lost a few studs but I'm a big guy, 275 with all my gear and most of my spots require a long walk so I expect to Lose a few.

The studs grip to everything! I fished some of the most angled rocks ever on a recent trip and the boots kept me locked down.

There overkill in some areas but I like having them when I need them. Some of my rocks have an inch of growth on them and not weeds but baby barnacles and sea life, the boots just cut right through it.

As far as swimming in them, not an issue, they do seem heavier when you take them off and there soaked but I did some long swims out on block and was fine, didn't notice the added weight.

Still a million times better than anything korker makes! there stuff is 
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I recently bought a new pair of boots to replace my Cross Currents that lasted roughly 2 years. After countless amounts of shoe glue to keep them together I threw in the towel and purchased a pair of Cabelas Guidewear boots, and wearbars.

The style of these boots are very similar to the Chota's for less money.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u...298_143_01.jpg

Here's the laundry list of supplies that I used for the install
Devcon- Marine epoxy
16-1/2" wearbars
SS-star washers
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u...6_161454-1.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u...6_155741-1.jpg

I installed the studs in between the lugs just as a preference rather than on the lugs themselves.

I didn't have an particular pattern for the studs I just wanted to have them spaced out evenly throughout the toe and heel.

In a few months I'll give them a test run hopefully with good results.

Has anyone noticed the old school korkers run a little smaller than they used to? An XL korker 5000 doesn't fit a size 13 foot boot anymore(before they used to fit perfectly). Anyone notice if the new lace-ups are running on the small side as well? Thanks...

for anyone who cares the ultralights with 24 wearbars on each foot weigh 29oz each, or 3lbs 10oz per pair.

This is the dry weight of the boots.

I have the boots soaking right now and will post a wet weight in a little while.

wet weight per boot is 2.5lbs, or 40oz each.

i soaked them for 2 hours, which is like fishing, usually my feet are always submerged, then i let them hang upside down for about a half hour to simulate walking.

So in total there about 5 pound give or take on your feet when there wet, also mine are a size 12.

I have not weighted a pair of Korkers 5000's but that's probably the weight of them alone.

Like cement shoes....
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Losing the k-5000's and switching to wearbars made such an incredible difference... I cant believe that I used to walk miles with those frankenstein boots... Clumsy and heavy as hell.

Just wish that the screw-in idea could be improved by a manufacturer, since the draw-back of wearbars is the squishy-feel that comes from them leaning and moving at times... I usually have to hand-tighten half a dozen before every outing, but even with their downsides, they are WAY better than korkers!

In regards to epoxy does it matter if is regular epoxy and not marine.
I don't think there is a difference for this application, what say you.
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I am going to try marine... regular epoxy didnt do well for me... it gets brittle and cracks after outings in the salt. A slightly flexible adhesive would actually be the ideal solution

I bet a waterproof, flexible, sticks to rubber, sticks to metal adhesive would be the ticket.....


Hmmmm,,,
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Hey Gatta... are these the spikes you were looking into? Called "Grip studs"... I was looking at these last winter, but didnt buy them... They have a much wider thread, which should translate to much less leaning from walking. anyone try them? I really think I might try these...

http://www.gripstuds.com/documents/t_3000B_StudN_2.jpg

Wader Boots

After one season, here's my review.

These were not so good in a soft rubber application. They don't' fall out but they compress into the soft rubber, such as muck boot bottom waders. They definitely provided enough grip to continue to mess with safely. I never tried them in my the cabbalas ultralights.

In a hard sole, they were great, but I couldn't find any hard sole shoe that worked well for a surf application. I tried them in an old pair of leather, low top, work boots. You couldn't beat the grip and hold but they felt like bricks, once they got wet. May be ok for the ditch if you don't' get them wet...All in all, the ware bars are far superior.

Funny thing about this thread. It gets me really pumped for fishing for some reason.

Try 5200 marine adhesive. You can get it at any store that sells boat stuff. It stays flexible and is permanent on porous surfaces.

Thanks... I read up on the 5200, and that seems to be a great option... Flexibility while maintaining adhesion is the key to keeping the wearbars in place and to prevent loosening over time.
The marine epoxy I used in the past was too rigid, and eventually just cracks.
Even though I dip the entire thread in the adhesive prior to screwing in the spike, only a very small amount actually stays on the thread, since the felt or rubber sole acts as a squeegy as the threads enter the sole... but Every little bit counts.

NOW... question is, do I run out and buy new rubber sole boots for 2012 because RI DEM officers have difficulty distinguishing the difference between fresh and salt water??? Maybe when they wear out... but for now, go jump in a lake... or an ocean... or any brackish water. "Ease of enforcement"... what a joke. If you dont know the difference, you're not qualified for the job, Period.

I will be trying them this year. I have some concerns on the length of the stud and if they will roll over.

Time will tell.
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Try filling the hole with the adhesive and coating the threads. This will insure that adhesive is forced into the felt.

I fish mostly in mass so I don't have to worry about the felt ban yet. Though I do plan to venture down into RI this year. Let me know if you go rubber and how it works out with the 5200. May need to get a pair of rubbas too.

Idea.

Solder or weld the washer to the wearbar. Then apply epoxy to both the treads and backside of the washer before screw down.