Lipless how to
 

Tricky plug to build, and I can't say I've caught anything impressive on one, but a very cool Musso design and people might learn something trying to copy it.

Since Super Strike is still in business, I'm not going to burn this design completely. Only show how to go about it if you are so inclined to try.

It is based on the same shape as their large plastic popper (go buy one and cut it in half if you want a template).

The tricky part is the face (although weighting is an art in itself). It has a wide arc, canted at an angle. See photo.

So here is how I cut it.
You need 2 jigs.
The first is to cut the angled arc.
It needs a base you will clamp to the drill table (which has been tilted-I used 20 degrees) and a sled that indexes with the base to swing the plug past the sanding drum.

I used the weight hole to index the plug.
I used a pin block to keep it straight and centered in the tail hole (if you left a square end you don't need this)
The circular block near the front is a cam meant to limit side motion from the sanding drum friction (it worked poorly).

I cut a matching circle/arc but this was a mistake. Better to use a can lid of the right diameter and two contact points on the sled (1/2" sticks with angled ends screwed equidistant from the center line on the bottom of the sled would work).

If you look at the base plate on the drill table you will see it has two sticks on it. These are centered and spaced the diameter of the sanding disc so I can use them to center the base plate to the drum above it.

So I turn my body, drill a weight and hook hole, center drill from the tail only as far as the hook hole, rough out the head angles (I'll show that later) then mount it on the sled, advance into the disc, and swing it side to side.

Note that the size of your disc is not important, it is the arc of the base that determines your face cove (actually the face cove is not the same as the arc of the base because of the geometry related to tilting...it turns out that you want the radius of the base less than the actual finished cove....you'll need to experiment a bit)

The head has two angles (roughly a 10 degree chin and a 50 degree forehead). I do that on the table saw using a small jig....just a board with a dowel in it to index the weight hole, and the same tail pin block I use on the sled. Use your mitre gauge at the correct angles for both cuts. You can use a stop block to position the setup.

This is what you should end up with

Finally, you have to drill from the face to the hook hole. The larger two sizes of this plug have offset line ties.
To get the angled hole to meet the center drilled hole in the hook hole I use a board with a nail to index the tail hole, offset the nail so the hole will travel at an angle to intersect the hook hole at the midline, and put a drill bit in the weight hole to help me keep everything aligned with the board. The tall nail in the picture isn't used for this plug.

As far as weighting goes....good luck. A few hints. The original floats very slightly tail down with water about 1/2 way up the face. The weight is very high inside the plug.

Good luck.

Nice tutorial... One question, am I also supposed to get blood on the plug?

You the man G. That jig is awesome! It's got me thinking

I would burst if I started another project but definitely a eye opener for sure. On another note do you still use that sled you posted a while ago for your darters? ..or have you came up with something new?

The blood just shows how dedicated he is!!

Awesome how to numbskull, thanks.

Will have to keep this one in the archives.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

Nah....I think it is just paint from the saw insert.

Still doing darters the old way, Frank. If I had to do a lot I'd set up a jig to sand the slope, I suppose. You could do it pretty easily on the drill press with a sanding drum and a same sized disc beneath it to act like a guide pin on a pin-router.

Great how to George. That's an interesting plug to tackle...you did a nice job. Thanks for sharing.

Nice tutorial, thank you for sharing. I use a similar method to cut the "bowl" on the head. I use a box cutter router bit. It is 1" dia. Does a good job, but you must make a jig to hold it steady in the drill press. The router bit is just a big round bit with a 1/2 ' shaft. Best used with the highest speed setting on the drill press.

Thanks for posting this numbskull... I love the plug and usually build a jig for everything I do. I lust may tackle this at some point this winter.

Very strange weighting on that plug, :confused:

Don't know who made these?? They were given to me by a friend over Cuttyhunk last season?? Made down NY way I believe??

Not sure what is cooler, the build or the jigs you made to do the build. All good stuff. Thanks for sharing!

Jigman

nice thought process George. Great job.

Like Frank said I got way too much half done to start another project but maybe someday I would like to try one. I definitely like making fixtures and jigs more than the actual plugs and enjoy seeing how people figure things out. Thanks.

Numbskull
This is great stuff. Especially for someone new to plug building like me, I can take much more from it than just building lipless swimmers.

question on where you drill the hole through the front, it looks low and I would think a higher hole would swim deeper, is that how it works?
Hookset

Yes, that is how it works. These are surface plugs, true to the original. The smallest Musso had an on center hole (I believe) and I think the Lex clones did as well.
I have not tried this plug with a higher hole, but probably should.

Great post Numby, lipless plugs are right up my ally!:)

Great tutorial .. Thanks for sharing .

I was working on the small version last year ...worked out a few but more free hand than I wanted .
These jigs ideas will help alot.
The coving/cupping of the face needs a jig ..my raw knuckles are proof:rotf2:

Just noticed ...the smaller one did seem to have a centered thru wire ...at least thats how I did mine