Best Window Glazing?
 

I have an issue with a 2001 Anderson 25" full height window, where the glazing on the bottom has separated from the glass and I had water leaking in yesterday and it went down two floors and stained a ceiling. I need to strip it away and don't want to do this repair every year, any recommendations on best stuff, easy to use and permanent fix?

Pics would help, but I'm assuming that the vinyl cladding separated from the wood. No long term permanent cure that I know of, it's sort of like fiberglassing a wood boat. If it is the sash you likely could get a new one, but i'm guessing it is the sill. Long term cure is remove and replace.

Either side of a Frenchwood inswing padio door by Anderson (2001) are these two full height glass panels and last year the weather stripping at the bottom had pulled away from the glass and we didn't know about it until the water had run down and stained the ceilings on the two floors below. I pealed the weather stripping and filled maybe a 2/16" gap that had formed as the wood too had moved away from the glass. I probably shouldn't have used caulking, but it was fine for a year or so and it too pulled away. I've got a temp shield over it until I can put a lamp on it to dry it out good and picked up some DAP 33 window glazing. Otherwise I'm sure it's a big number to get a replacement installed.

If water from that travelled down two floors, you have a leaking pan below the door too. I would at least get a price for replacing the door panel that is leaking.... but you still need to find out how the water got past the sill and inside the house after it exited the door panel.

This Bob


If the glazing is the problem, the water getting by the threshold is a bigger one IMO
I suspect it has something to do with threshold sitting right on the deck ...

I’m a lot of help, hey?

When the original glazing or weatherstripping separated from the window enough to let water in it apparently began to swell the wood behind the outer sandwich and it eventually go to a point we noticed on heavy NE rain storms with wind, we were getting water inside on the floor and then stains on two ceilings below. I'm inclined to glaze after drying it out well and hope we get some time, as we are considering downsizing in the next couple years and selling.

Well, if that is the course you want to take, you might as well take it off the hinges and drill holes from the bottom. This will allow gravity to be working with you, similar to getting water out of a Whaler hull full of foam. I will try to price a replacement panel if I remember when I am at lumber yard.

It's on the full height 25" glass panel on one side (one each side) of the inswing door (without issues), so nothing to remove and that job would be above my skill set.

Thanks for the call Ross, love projects, not.

This site has the info to figure out which panel you would need, I don't know if their pricing is competitive or not
https://www.windowparts.com/Andersen...ist-s/9154.htm

That's pricey, but not unexpected, will have to kick this around with the girlfriend (her home) to see what she wants to do.

Curious if these window panels are replaced from the inside or outside Ross, as I don't see any fasteners, other than some small finish nails on the inside wood molding. I'm curious if these are as easy as pop out pop in or if it's more involved. If they can be installed from the inside (my hope), I might pop the molding off the bottom to drill some holes to drain and dry so I can attempt the temp glazing repair. That would I hope also expose the means of permanently securing the panel if I opt to buy and replace. The alternate if they go in from the outside is to pull off the vinyl cap I assume hides the means of securing them from the outside.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-q-cd19XAj0

There are so many models that you need to figure out which one you have. The instx change every time we get one and seem like they have been written as a junior high shop class project....


That said, I could not find a video with your set up. So my guess is it would be from outside. Look at headstop to see if there is a label there. I think this is the best place for you to start before you pry off any casing.... LMK

As far as the glazing goes DAP33 is a joke as is AquaGlaze,use Sarco Dual Glaze.

Remove any glazing that has failed,if the glass is loose use points where necessary and bed the glass with a decent caulk or the glazing,this is obviously easier done if the pane can be removed.Sand the exposed wood and then prime with an oil based primer and let fully dry.Then glaze.Once the glazing has skinned(less than a week with Sarco compared to several weeks for '33) prime again with an oil based primer and then paint.