Coffered ceilings
 

This has been trending in our new homes.

Nice, nothing like a little detail to give a home style.

I always liked those but as I get older my neck and body does not like working above my head for that long.

I would need upside down bifocals to do those nowadays

Good staging makes it much easier. Had to install crown moulding in every room of this 5,000 sq. ft. house......not done on step ladders.

Very nice
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That's a ton of work... :musc:
Nice job Bob

Wow. Really nice!

:claps: :claps: :claps:

Thanks guys.....the company I work for keeps me very busy.
I've been remodeling some commercial property they own for a client who is expanding. When we don't have new houses ready to be finished....they always have work for me at "the mill".

.......second picture you can see the motorized cable for lowering the chandelier.

This is our current model home. Staged with some furniture to make it look nice.

Kudos Bob.

Is your stock clear, primed, or painted when you are doing install? It looks good to go yet I see your staging and tools in the pics? When I am done with my work, it isn't quite like that.... I do "some" caulking and filling, certainly more than most finish carpenters, but still would need the painters to make my work shine like your pics show up your work.

Thanks Ross....stock we use comes primed....fingerjointed pine...(i like poplar better for interior painted woodwork)....we have to sand the surface at the joints to get them perfectly flush. Last pic was after painting
Painters would rather we let them do the caulking.
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awesome work

more stairs and cabinets..

Houses are selling fast...got to pick up the pace to keep up.

Things never change....sales department giving customers unrealistic completion dates. I start finish work and am told the house was supposed to be done already.
Not good to rush the finish work, but office people insist on "telling customers what they want to hear" when they sign up.
Another thing that irks me is customers that walk thru and point out things that they assume I am finished with that I am not.... thinking they need to "remind" me. This happens a lot.
I was installing cabinets, a man came in said he was the grandfather of the customer, asked if he could look around and report progress to grandson. I said "sure but keep in mind that I'm not finished with anything yet" he said he understood. Few minutes later he comes back and tells me that although the bathroom cabinets are screwed together they don't appear to be fastened to the wall studs. I said "you are absolutely correct sir.... and what did I tell you five minutes ago"? DUH!
Also I have no idea what the electrician was thinking when he located recessed lights in kitchen....they line up with nothing!

That second picture...with adjustable shelving....is that melamine material or is that wood?

It's melamine.
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Done.....got in to take pics just before the moving trucks arrived

few more

Young couple ...... mid twenties....both driving new Lexus....
I'd be jealous but I can say everything I have is through my own hard work since I didn't benefit from a trust fund...."Must be nice"

Lastly the exterior. And I'm onto the next job...more cabinets.

Just curious Bob,


I've only worked with "finished" edges with any melamine projects I've done....but when you're required to cut it, how good or easy is it when applying the edge tape? I think you're supposed to iron it on or something....have you (or anyone reading this) ever tried that?

If so.....is it a pain in the - - - .....or does it go on easy and STAY on long term?

I've edgebanded melamine many times .....miles of it.....and real wood veneer onto finish grade plywood using an old clothes iron....takes a little getting used to how much time and pressure to apply...edgebanding comes with hot melt glue already applied on the back and is slightly wider than the thickness of the material it is being applied to. It cools and sticks right away...then you trim excess with a flat file. Also they make a saw blade for melamine that produces chip free cuts...wich is important
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Like he said


Gilly, it just so happens that my next step on this kitchen I am building is to edge band all the casework parts. Maybe I should setup my iphone to video it for you.
There are a couple methods of edge banding. The hot iron or heat gun method and then there is the automatic edge bander machines for production work, those use a pvc tape and have a separate glue pot to supply the glue that gets put on in process, there are cutters to trim also.

I have a tabletop iron machine that holds the roll of tape and has an adjustable thermostat because the wood tape needs more temp. than the vinyl tape does, it has cooling aluminum rollers. It is a bit faster than a handheld iron but both ways work. 95% of my edge banding is with real wood veneer tape.

The melamine with edge tape is ok but it can delaminate if you catch an edge. The PVC tape looks cleaner and hold up better. But for most stuff like closets, they don't get overly abused.

Slip is right.... there are edgebanding machines and they come in all sizes...i worked in large commercial millwork shop and it could handle a continuous flow of door slabs to be edged...self feeding....routers that trimmed both edges...... adjusting the cutters........checking glue temperatures... conveyer belt...but for my shop and many small to medium projects the iron on has got the job done. Its low teck but i have it down pat...easy job really.

Mail room dividers that I built, had 72, 3/4 plywood shelves, edgebanded with the iron-on tape..... was just a few hours work.
Customer wanted to put labels on front edge of each shelf so 3/4 thick.

Wow. I am going to build something very close to this to organize all of my glass color at my studio. Thanks for the inspiration.
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Thanks guys.

Googan question....

Why are you using plywood and not MDF or even poplar or pine?
Is it cost driven?

Bruce, even a short video of you applying the edging would be great, it sounds pretty straight forward, but I may see you doing something that raises a question...but don't embarrass yourself in front of the other subs, :heybaby:....I wouldn't want them knowing you were weird.

poplar and pine can warp way worse than plywood might.
Some clients can afford a no particle board option so veneer core plywood is good. I use it on almost everything as I build a lot of cases.
That's OK Gilly, they already know I'm weird.
Just use an Iron and chase it with a block of wood, you'll be fine.

:kewl:

Edgebanding video......I dont use the special edge trimmer tool he uses in the video ....I use the edge teeth of a flat file.
https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x5a40hj

I did 5" crown molding in 2 rooms with cathedral ceilings. Never again. Cutting the joints took lots of trial and error and PATIENCE.

Putty and paint....makes it what it ain’t. 😂
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....makes a carpenter what he ain’t. 😂


Big difference in paint grade jobs versus stained or prefinished.
For the latter you need more skill and patience....using putty in poorly fitting joints looks like crap.

I have a ton more welding experience over carpentry experience, so my old saying was always- a grinder and paint makes you the welder you aint! but yes i can see how a stained job would make a big difference.

We just did crown molding around our gallery and i was quite humbled by it. i tried a few different approaches and for me, I found that the best method was to use my makita grinder that i usually use on metal paired with a 40 grit sand paper disc was the best tool for corners... but one end and then cope the other side with the grinder.

I grind and polish glass occasionally... that is a zen art that i could write a book about....

A couple thoughts on crown molding, which I have done a lot of;

Check ceiling lines first for level. If level, easy peasy. But if you put your eyes up at ceiling level you will find sighting 4 out of 5 will make you seasick... If delta is less than .5 inch, caulk between top of crown and ceiling.

Be sure you have a tall enough fence on your miter saw and mark or tape the base for the spring angle so your joints will be consistent.

Make up 4 set up pieces and mark them inside left, inside right, outside left, outside right. These will help you to minimize mistakes when setting up your cuts, especially on inside pieces that are to be coped. I still do this every time.

Makes a pencil line on the profile after cutting. It will make coping much easier as you can see the line better. Take your time with coping saw. It is not a race. And it does not matter how nice the backside of the cope looks. I usually have a tablesaw handy to knock down anything I think might help the final fit.

Nebe, I will butt end both ends of wall opposite entry to room as first piece to install. Then cope left and right, looking for where outside miter joint or long wall requires mid joint to prevent doing a double ended coped piece

Great tips ! I wish I talked to you last week.
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