sequence of events
 

I have been building for 3 years and follow the same sequence with each build. But, it seems like others have slightly different sequence when it comes to the eTex. Here is what I mean with the steps I take after painting the plug:

1) stick the eyes on plug
2) etex
3) use saw to clean out etex from lip
4) use dremel or drill to clean out etex from through hole
5) install hardware

While I see some install the lip, wire, swivels before etex. It looks like they use a straw to protect the swivel from the etex. This sequence makes more sense to me since it seals around the lip and tail loop, and I don't have to redrill or cut for the lip which I believes may create opportunity for water to infiltrate.

Do most install hardware and then etex, or follow the same sequence as I do? how do you keep the eTex from sticking to the straw?

Thanks

i do not install the wire beforehand cause i have a single axis threw wire spinner, i think that is where you see some builders with the wire in first, i pretty much follow what you do with the added belly grommet installed before it hits the spinner.

2012-11-05_11-02-39_148-1.mp4 Video by jmachacz | Photobucket

Thanks for the video, nice spinner!
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Here goes. I use Sys. 3 clear coat.
Seal Wait 1 week
Prime. Wait 1 week
Paint. Wait 1 week
Install belly grommets, eyes, nose grommet if needed.
Install on my thru wire spinners I have 2 which hold 8 to 10 plugs total. Epoxy, spin, and if needed apply 2nd coat, which I prefer to do, after first is dry and scotch brite pad and wipe clean with iso. alcohol
Metal lips get a flat lip put thru a few to times while they are spinning to make sure no sawing is needed after it sets up. Only once in a blue moon saw comes out.
install lips and finish wiring.
Done. I like a plug wired after epoxy. Much cleaner and precision look to them. I am not changing my way anymore. This is how I will do it till I give it up. Spent a lot of time getting comfortable with this way. One can spend a life time switching back and forth. Got to settle on your technique, and products eventually and stick to it. Makes it more enjoyable to know what you are going to do
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Paul
Looks like your process of running the flat lip through prevents having to re-saw, makes sense.
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Yeah just shove it in the slot a few times while the epoxy is still flowing a little bit. You will know when to not do it anymore as it will get too thick and make a mess. All these little tricks come from screwing up every concievable way over the years. After a while no problem will perplex you really. You will know what to do and more importantly know what not to do.
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Knowing i have some epoxy that runs into the slot i sand inside of the slot just a little large to allow for shrinkage, but if i had the extra metal for the lips i would do like paul mentioned
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Just take a lip and flatten it out in a vise or with a hammer and save it just for that purpose. If for some reason I need to get the epoxy out I use a fine coping saw blade by itself and carefully work it into the slot.
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I've always done the flip and hang method of epoxy, and have zero issues with it.

I fully wire and rig my plugs before epoxy, the tail and nose loops are there for me to hang my plugs from.

This is what has worked for me.

I leave the small electric heater under the plugs so they cure a little quicker and require less flipping.

One issue is when the plug needs to be rewired, you have to break the epoxy on the tail wrap which will usually mess the paint up. But if the plugs is that beat from fish or rocks it probably gets retired instead of rebuilt.

I put straws over the swivels, keeps the epoxy off em, important part is to remove the straws before the epoxy cures
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Stick a doubled over index card in your lip slot and pull it out after the plug has spun for 30" or so.

All that waiting a week, then another week, then another week is because Paul is a procrastinator.....it has nothing to do with end results.

With valoil I sand and prime after 24-48 hours in a heated room.
With Zspar undercoat, I sand and finish paint after 24-48 hours in a heated room. As long as your seal coat or prime coat dust as you sand and don't clog the sandpaper you are OK.
I let the createx dry over night then heat set it in a warm oven for 15-20" and epoxy soon thereafter.

I belly grommet/eyes before epoxy. Everything else after.

He speaks the truth. The week timeline is more for my schedule never had to push the time issue so I am not sure how fast you can jump from one operation to next. I usually keep it relaxed, except for week before plugfest.
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Too funny!
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George has to do it all fast because he does all his building a week before plugfest. Not procrastinating just really bad planning. 😚
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Hair dryer can speed up any process!
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LOL
I use numbskulls folded index card, spin for about 1-2hours, pull card and completely clean lip slot.
Cool discussion fellas
MS
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Have 7 curing now, cleaned out with index card twice.
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