scratch coats
 

I wonder if we can talk about scratch coats to put over createx paints before epoxy clear coats???

I am out of Upol

I remember reading that there may be adhesion problems with one of the spray cans of clear ? rustoleum? another brand? I can't remember.....

I use createx paint , wait a day and then usually clearcoat with a spray can of Upol, then scuff with a scotchbrite pad, clean with wilbond or something, then epoxy with System Three clearcoat or Envirotex.

So what clear spraybomb can I use without having troubles? anyone?

also, I have some plugs I will be placing a waterslide transfer decal on to so that most likely should be done after the clear spraypaint after I install the eyes and belly grommet.

or can I just handle the raw painted bodies carefully with gloves on to install the eyes,grommet and decals???:confused:

thanks

As we discussed yesterday I canned using any scratch coats 2 years ago so I am of no help there but I I handle my plugs by hand to install eyes, grommets, etc.. and never a problem. I use gloves or sometimes a paper towel. either or. Just need to be careful. Not sure about water slides though, never used them.

Try this Evirotex sealer (it's gloss but you will scuff it), I have sprayed it over decals and would suggest several light coats and you might want to test it on a sample to be sure of compatibility. I would still use the gloves to install the eyes and grommets etc and follow with Envirotex finish coat, I don't/haven't used system three yet so you might want to make sure it's compatable before risking a problem.
Attachment 42748

That's the same stuff I use....never had a problem, as long as you do scuff it.....don't forget to take a scotchbrite pad to it or the epoxy can peel.

I've tried a bunch of different things (via experimentation ) and hated them all... I went to clear lacquer 2 years ago... best thing i ever did...it seals the wood/ paint externaly and stops those annoying bubbles around the eyes and belly grommets ( end grain area) ( glueing the eyes and grommets helps as well) ..

I use Val spar clear laqcuer over the Delta Cerama Kote or createx, with no issues....I dont even scuff between lacquer and epoxy and havent had one peel yet....the epoxy spreads eaiser with less "holidays" than other scratch coats..and the un epoxied plug is much more durable... the plug does not scratch or mar the paint as easy as an un treated plug...

thanks guys

i have plenty of lacquer on hand here Joe:uhuh:
I'll give it a shot

System three will not stick to krylon clear.

System three's formulation has changed and the latest batch I bought is near unusable.

Epoxy will stick to createx just fine without a scratch coat (even better if the createx is heat set). The peeling problems I have seen are all related to the createx not sticking to the primer coat. I think this BIN primer that most people use is a weak link.

I think the issue here is with the shelac based primer.. if you do not sand it and wipe the dust with an UNTREATED tack cloth, that is where the adhesion issue comes in between primer and paint,, due to the gloss of the primer... I use the oil based, zinsser cover stain, no sanding and the paint sticks like super glue to a finger...

It's nice to see we have some common ground :btu:

I may be in the minority here, I may be wrong. But I have never had an ahesion problem using a straight seal in val-oil, and then priming with just plain old rusto flat white. The only time I had an issue was when I put too much d2t on for my top coat and blistered it against a rock and cracked a piece off the epoxy. I abandoned the scratch coat a few years ago.

I gave up using the scratch coat years ago. Just another step and really saw no advantage of it. I epoxy in the eyes after paint and before epoxy, bare handed. I wouldn't do it after eating a burger or something, but as long as your hands are clean you are fine.

Jigman

The only time I use a scratch coat is over metalic paint. Silver for example. My waterslide transfer logo does not adhere to it. I give the tail of teh plug a quick spray. Let dry and apply logo. Apply epoxy.