needle question please?
 

i just got an arm load of (new) dark maple flooring most of which i'll burn tonight as kindling...to start up some overnight logs in my fireplace......but i wondered if it was too thin to start out with to make some needles. after i cut some sticks on the table saw i was thinking of making some end blocks for bigger ends to acomodate my lathe.
dont have a jet mini lathe yet......but someday i will tho...................oops ->3/4's of an inch thick as is

3/4 x 3/4 is fine....old sharpies on block use to make needle's out of bic pen's.

i take it then
 

that the jet mini lathes have a much smaller X- point on each end....
i have a delta 700 ....and i was thinking i couldnt turn needles with it unless i had a bigger diameter stock to begin with...but perhaps i'm mistaken?

A 1/2" Stebcenter will allow you to turn 3/4 x 3/4 stock no problem.
If the florring has relief cuts on the backside, you will have to rip then according to where the thicker parts are so you might only get 2 pieces per width for 2-1/4" wide flooring, but you already knew that.

do you guys?
 

pre- drill the ends first to have a better seat....

so they are slightly concave to begin with or

do you start with flat ends and crank them in tight....

after you determine where the exact center is...?

drilling the center hole is first i'd imagine too...

sorry if these are newbie questions ....i made allot of plugs mostly poppers as a teenager but in those days i just glued in long shank
screws......prolly why i had numerous times of plugs flying back
and smacking the boat...(1969) a friend of mine has a 100,000 dollar wood shop with every tool you could imagine where i can do some proceedures that i cannot do in my own man cave for lack of
certain tools like a mini -drill press for example.... but these items are on my wish list.

I've been considering a Steb center as well. Will the 1/2 inch one suffice to turn larger plugs (like maple darters) or will it slip too much and do I need to buy two?

i know, i know
 

read up on the needles : step by step......i plan too ! yeppers..
i saved all that maple stock....getting more tomorrow too.

weird: i downloaded an extension for firefox that tabs all my searches,,,so at the top of my browser i have:

right now: editing posts;needlequestion;something different;the coldest beer;editing posts;needle question;needle question;striper talk message boards... all of my travels at s-b in the last hour or so...

so i can just click a tab and be there.... hmmmm :huh:

needles can be made from that stock or you could make balistic missles

Maple is very difficult on the stebcenter in my experience, the 1/2" is good for 3/4" stock but if you use 1" or larger stock, then definately go with the 1" stebcenter or use the center that came with your lathe.


Raven, I mark the center with an awl in square stock, that is enough of an impression to crank it in the lathe. If the wood is hard as opposed to cedar, then I may take the center out of the lathe and hammer it into the block of wood, then reinsert in the lathe. I drill thru after turning for several reasons.

Penn State Industries has steb ctrs for $20 (spring loaded) not the $70 from Sorby. If you want a live Steb ctr packard wood got'm.
So at that $$ you could get a couple of sizes.:wiggle:

While not a steb center, I find this 3/8 spur drive to work very well on small stock:

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx...ID=3841&cs=fam

(bottom of page)

Slip, why do you drill your nedles after turning?

Most times when I turn, I leave a little extra on each end so I start drilling with a short bit in order to keep as straight as possible, then I can cut off the extra so the blank that I am now drilling is much shorter so less chance of screwing up the thru hole by going off center. capece?
Also I do it on the lathe and since it is round, I can allow the blank to spin a little as I drill, if it was square I think I'd get splinters doing that

[QUOTE=Karl F]While not a steb center, I find this 3/8 spur drive to work very well on small stock:

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx...ID=3841&cs=fam

thats the one I use on just about everything........the only time it spins in the wood is when your not paying attention and hit the wood with your knife to hard,,those are so sharp they bite into most hardwoods without having to beat on the blank to get it to sink in.

Yup Slip, capece. :hihi: thank you.:)

[QUOTE=Slipknot]Maple is very difficult on the stebcenter in my experience

I'll say:hihi:

[QUOTE=Professor Moriarty]had one blow up after you left :hidin:

Duck Dodge Hide . Put on the catcher's equipment to turn.

[QUOTE=capesams]Sharp indeed.. if you do get one of these to use, (try it, you'll Love it) do not pound on blank.... like CS said sharp.. light tap of the hammer maybe, but if you pound, = split blank with this little sharp one.

when u go to weight the needle move the hook foward and put a shot in front a shot behind.
you can drill a hole in the arse and put a slug or 2 or 3 up till it is near the belly hole then slide nylon spacer or plastic tube and then wrap it off. u will get a needle that will ride perfect in the water. and the formulaH werks for all sizes and thick or thin. on a larger needle u can up the shot weights or double them. get your formula down®
and use trebles.
U can make them ride on top slow sink or fast sink.
thats the trick to it for the most part that and knowing when and how they want the needle to score, thats why i catch a ton of fish on these. an' love em.
a pefect needle that rides right will not go down butt heavy and if they do save them for fast nasty surf.
I have a few needles that suspend.
its in how they ride and a slight cork scew when they cast = nice weighting
As far as eye loop You can bend it horizontal and tune it a little .
BM (O)^(O)