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Mark 09-11-2006 08:10 AM

concrete ?
 
I'm putting in some replacememnt windows in my cellar. Problem is that the old metal frames aren't deep enough for the new windows. Also the bottom of the casement sinks down at an angle from the frame so I'll need to build it up flush so that the bottom of the new windows sit tight. Knowwhatimean? I was thinking of drilling in some concrete screws and wrapping it all with some rebar wire as a sort of frame. Question is should I use concrete, or is mortar a better choice?

Nebe 09-11-2006 08:15 AM

im no expert,but i would frame in the new window with wood (good rot resistant wood if its close to the ground)and use one of those nifty 22 cal. nail guns designed for concrete nailing... building up concrete is pretty tricky when its hanging upside down and on its side..

ya dig?

spence 09-11-2006 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark
Also the bottom of the casement sinks down at an angle from the frame so I'll need to build it up flush so that the bottom of the new windows sit tight. Knowwhatimean?

Often the replacement windows will come with a piece of metal bent into an L shape, but at less than 90 deg. This is caulked into place and seals that gap just below the front of the window.

-spence

Raven 09-11-2006 08:42 AM

if you were asking me to do it...

i'd take a piece of pressure treated lumber and cut it on an angle with your table saw....
then i'd use tap-con screws to sink it to the cement in pre-drilled holes pushing down
on 20yr grey silicone concrete adhesive
to give you back your flat rough opening.

stripersnipr 09-11-2006 08:48 AM

If you choose PT make sure its Ground Contact Pressure Treated and is fairly dry or you'll run into substantial shrinkage.

Mark 09-11-2006 09:59 AM

Thanks for your quick replies - I'm headed to Home Depot in a few hours. So it looks like angled PT is the way to go. 50 more projects and then I can fish. Thanks again.

Van 09-11-2006 06:29 PM

I did the same job last year.
Used PT and a table saw to make all the pieces and get the window as tight as posssible. I had to shim the sides too.

Oh yea and about one tube of caulk per window.


My house is almost 100 so there were lots of issues. That spray-in foam worked wonders too.

nightfighter 09-12-2006 09:03 PM

Contractors adhesive to hold window in place, no screws or nails that way.Stops on interior side. When plumb, shim sill angle, prob 11 degrees. Fill rest of void with insullation, trim out with 1x PVC trim board.Caulk. Done


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