Drill press help
 

Have any of you ever replaced the bearings in a drill press?

I think thats whats wrong with mine. It spins fine until you lower the bit and there is some run out. Its a 1996 1hp floor crapsman. The bearings are not U.S. made.

I think it has some number on it somewhere like 1836.776454
Find that and there should be a cut sheet on the sears website.
I think I have pretty near the same drill press, maybe a littl older.
I probably will have to do it to mine sooner or later.
Bearings are usually matchable at a bearing supply house.

Craftsman, of course the bearing are NOT USA made :doh:
Sounds like that is what the problem is Chris.
No, I have not ever changed bearings in a drill press before, but it can't be that difficult for a guy who makes plugs like you do :)

Does he (if you know) carry Timkens and is he of the sort who's willing to point me in the right direction for pulling the bearings?
Thanks.

Bruce Ive been staring this one down hoping I would have an epiphany but my bulb must be out. Thanks

I have to take some pics and do some typing to explain but I don't think it's the bearings. Give me a few minutes.

I have a similar Crapsman 1hp Drill Press model 113.213151 and mine has done it since brand new. (I didn't really use it for a few years or I would have returned it) I think it's the Quill tube that has too much free play in the cast head. To test this first release belt tension from drive belt or it will make bearings seem tighter than they really are if there's a problem, then lower the chuck 1" and with a bright light shining on the Quill jiggle the chuck from side to side and you should see the Quill move. Now lower the chuck all the way down and with downward pressure on it jiggle the chuck again. It doesn't move does it because the rack gear is exerting pressure on the quill holding it in place and stopping it from moving. If you back off 1/2" and try it again it should wiggle again even if you don't touch the chuck but only grab the bottom of the Quill. If it were the bearings it would still wiggle when held in the down position or when all the way up because they are inside the Quill Tube in my opinion. You can adjust some of this out by adjusting the screw on the left hand side of the cast head piece. My slot was so rough I had to clean it up first so the quill would still move up and down. Pretty crappy design and materials. There is a fine line between tightening up the slop and the Quill not moving. If you don't have a manual you can go to SEARS.com, go to tools and then PARTS. Type in the model number and you can view exploded parts diagrams. Here are some pics to try and make my post make more sense.

*I was going to just purchase another drill press but every one I tested did the same thing, when the Quill was lowered there is play at the chuck because of poor tolerances between the Quill and the casting. Go to the store and try it yourself on a brand new machine.

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/9...dwiggleuj3.jpg
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/5...illtubehb0.jpg
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/3...llquotewj5.jpg
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/7...rillprekb6.jpg
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/8211/deburrua6.jpg


#1LOCKNUT M17 X 1.0 817309
#2 RING, LOCKING 817310
#3WASHER 817311
#4BEARING, BALL 17MM (SEE NOTE) STD315235 #5GASKET, QUILL 817535
#6TUBE,QUILL 817532
#7KEY, DRIFT 817326
#8KEY, CHUCK 817339
#9 CHUCK 817340
#10 ARBOR 817341
#11 SPINDLE 817531
#12 BEARING BALL (SEE NOTE) STD315245
http://www3.sears.com/Paul/Leadimage...titleID=00003&
http://www3.sears.com/Paul/Leadimage...titleID=00001&

I would think if the bearings were gone Chris you would hear and feel it. Above post seems like a good bet.

bearing service is very good also.there in providence.yes they have timkin

Guyver I think you nailed it, :thanks:


I had tried adjusting the screw but its a wicked crappy adjustment meaning a slight turn and its locked up I will into the deburring though.

Thanks guys

I forgot to put in my post that you have to release belt tension first or it will make it seem like the bearings are tighter than they really are if there is a problem. I'll go back and edit it in.

In order to get the tolerances tight enough the casting and Quill would have to be hardened and ground so they wouldn't wear each other away and cause more slop with use but that would add to the cost of the Drill Press. But they're pretty worthless for precision work as is. :splat:

Buy a Bridgeport you cheapo.

If I'm a "cheapo" where would we classify you? Doubledogcheapo?:rotf2:

I do however have a set of chucks for a Bridgeport, nice stuff. Albrecht or sumtn like that

Just part of the benefit package

Well I took the head assembly down to parade rest including removing the bearings. This is gonna suck getting back together:smash:

Guyver is right on with the machining of the case for the quill to ride in. the set screw slot was pretty clean but I cleaned it up anyways. The set screw however is a POOR design and machining. I did quite abit of filing to give it more and better adjustment. Really poor design. I might look at other drills and see if they a have good one that would work. As it is you need to take the hub (lowering arm) out & more to remove the set screw and I dont think that should be the case, a simple redisgn of the screw would eliminate an awfull lot.


The bearings were all fine:whackin: I will be replacing all of them however.

It is always easier taking something apart than putting back together. I am still trying to get my snowblower carb linkage back together right and it looks like I am going to need the darn thing this week. Chris bring it by if you want and we can see if we can make something better. 7 till 12 M-Thurs. Just a thought . P.

Thanks Paul. Think you could spool up one of them big CNC jobbies and make a whole new head piece:lasso: