Grommet attachment
 

Do you attach belly grommets with epoxy or just do a tight press fit?
I see many older plugs with belly grommets hanging on the hook and was wondering what the preferred method was. Also what about the nose and tail? I know the wire holds them in place but does anyone epoxy those in also?

I do both tight fit and a little zap a gap :btu:

Swab a small amount od 5 min. epoxy in the hole and slap the gromet in! Then epoxy around the gromet very well when you finish the plug.

I counter-sink the belly hole before cutting the square ends off. I use .273 belly grommets and they fit snug in a 9/32 hole-- e-tex in the countersink holds the grommet just fine.

I was just curious because I dip my plugs after they are sealed and dried in primer. I do this twice because I like the fact that the primer is in the through hole and belly holes. The epoxy or glue does not bond very well with a primed surface. I may try the countersunk belly grommet however. Thanks.

What primer? Epoxy should stick... well like glue :rollem: to a primer surface.

Never had an issue with the epoxy not holding them in. I insert them after paint and before clear.

I press-fit them.

I have a shaping tool that Numbskull made for me. Put the grommet in the appropriate size hole, press and roll and voila, shaped to the round of the body and a tight fit.

I made(ground) a tool out of a pair of C-clamp pliers.Basically to punch thru the shaft of the gromet into the wood.2 clicks an thats it..

that's what Stan Kuzia was telling me about 2 plugfests ago. I haven't made one yet but if I use grommets, that's how I'd like to do them.

I put a dowel in my drill press chuck and press them in.

after Painting I use 2 part Epoxy to hold in the grommet and eyes then E-tex over.

i knew I had seen this somewhere
 

LOL. First thing he ask's me everytime I see him. Did you make that tool yet. Asked me about 5 years ago. I keep forgetting.:think: I told him I don't need one as I use a drill that is only slightly smaller than the OD of the grommet so they are always snug and so no problem, which is why it is never on my mind. One of these days I will make one and have it ready so when he ask's me I can whip it out and make his day.:angel: P.

I do mine the same exact way. I also round my grommets like AH's pics in the link NF posted.

NIB........could you post a pic???

Fred, do you have any denting problems on the back of the plug with your method.?

I think NIB means snap ring pliers. That is what i would use if i was going to try and modify something, pliers that open out.

Here is a couple chart's that should help you all at one time or another.
http://internetwoodworking.com/w5/equivs.html
http://www.newmantools.com/decinch.htm
MM conversion chart too. Simple formula is the mm is multiplied by .03937, which is constant. Thus 8mm x .03937 = .31496, pretty close to 5/16.
I use a letter "I " drill for the .273 grommets and I use an 11/32 for the larger grommets. They fit snug. I sometimes have to take an exacto knife to clean out the paint and sealer as the hole once and a while will be too snug but not a real problem and easy to fix. The only problem is the they are not forstner bits which most like to use, but my drilling set up is probably different than most. Might not be what people are looking for, but the charts are worth knowing.

I use either a shop rag folded 4-5 times or a piece of eva foam if I can find it. My shop looks like it exploded.

Snap ring pliers or any pliers that open out are correct..
Can't do pics..
If I had to decribe em I would say when I am done grinding they look like a T on top of a triangle.I< kinda like that from the side..If u get the angle right it holds the grommet down as u apply pressure then when u squeeze the pliers they punch the inside wall of the grommet out an it makes 2 little holes. The metal that puhes out goes into the wood an holds the grommet..of course this in conjunction with a tight hole is a good thing..

I have a pair that converts for both interior and exterior snap rings but they dont look like they would exert enough pressure to make a divot in the grommet collar.

Not to argue or disagree with any of the above posts,but IMO I would NOT suggets piercing wood that has been sealed, primed & painted, etc ESP around the grommet holes. This is just an invitaion for water intrusion.You would not put pin holes in the body of the plug after sealing would you ?
Simply epoxy them in place, if they are recessed just a dab of epoxy is all it takes on the flat spot, or under the rolled flange, this is not rocket science. You also dont need a very tight fit cause the epoxy needs a place to go.
just my .02

Tinman,
I agree that piercing the wood is not a good thing but if I understand correctly the described procedure does not pierce the sealer or the primer. I think it just dimples the collar of the grommet into the wood and makes kind of a mechanical connection similar to crimping a wire connector without solder.

try to get the gromets out of an old CCBC :musc: just like Nib said.

recessing em is a nice look.it's also another step.The problem is when u epoxy em they are only sticking to the paint.If u use a water base paint an set the grommet prior to the finish epoxy coat They can let go.I feel better with some kinda mechanical bond even if it does make a small hole for water to get in.. OMG....

I spot face with the belly hole for the gromet ( I use two different sizes of gromets depending on the plug),then drill my belly hole with another (smaller foshner bit) I dunk all my plugs in primer, then spray the final coat of primer after painting I do as many others do, swab the entire hole (spot face too) with 5 minute epoxy.. and push the gromet in to place..when I E-tex I carefully brush e-tex onto the edges of the gromet... after curing, any e-tex that is inside the gromet is removed with a carbide countersink... it works great..... I've never had an adhesion problem doing things this way...