CPES, prime or not--
 

Pro of cpes is you don't have to prime, one less step. I found the problem is, if your using pearl paint, it tends to run and you have to put it on very slowly. Opaques seem to go on easier.
Anybody have more experience/suggestions?

prime

me ? no prime .. it says no prime so I don't ... my first coat is rattle can flat white or flat black ... when dry,,I do all the bells and whistles with airbrush..other colors, dots ,,scales ,,eyes ,, whatever works for you .. I think primer is soft ..

What Tagger said :wavey:

Bernzy

I usually put a coat of opaque white on every plug I do first, as a base. Then start with the colors. But I also prime and don't seal with the stuff you are using Dave. I don't know it seems to work for me but I am no expert. I am willing to listen to any ideas when it comes to the finishing process:spin: :smash:

How is this method any different than priming? :pop:

Bill ,, threads about cpes ... it says in the information with the product .. No need for primer... its paint ready ... Why do it then ? I have to take more care sharpening my tools ,,sanding,, because I don't have a coat of primer filling in all that tear out,dents and other crap .$$$$cpes$$$ I'm happy to cut out a step .. I'm looking for vmc hook swing at the end of the season with rest of the paint intact .
:alien:

Ed;
Thanks, I understand that. What I don't understand is how your first coat of "rattle can paint" is any different than a primer coat if you are painting with the air brush afterwards.
Would "paint ready" not mean that you would go right at it with the air brush?
Please know I am not questioning your decision or method I am just trying to grasp this whole idea.

Thanks Ed!

Rattle cans my base coat ,, before I would seal ,,prime,,basecoat,,,,bells and whistles . just cutting out the primer part ..

Geeze, I hope you all don't think that I'm a knuckle draggin' moron, but you lost me at CPES. What's that?

Clear penetrating epoxy sealer. Somewhere, the system three web site "epoxy book" perhaps, suggests this may not be a good topcoat, though I forget why.

Just a guess George, but i would say it is just too watery for a top coat.

Got it now Tag, thanks :as:

The "epoxy book" available through System Three's site claims that "penetrating" epoxies contain a solvent and consequently have poor strength and, more concerningly, poor moisture resistance. Of course they are hardly an objective resource and it seems to me that the moisture resistance of their Clear Coat product isn't all it's cracked up to be either, at least when mixed by weight in small quantities. Go figure.

I'm in the same boat as BBJ, I know nothing about CPES.

How is it to work with, any fumes ?? Did anyone use this stuff last year, and if so how did the paint hold up ?

For a sealer.I use the sb-112 It's made for surfboards an makes a tough as hell plug..i heat em up so it soaks in..It's a PITA thats why I have all these turned plugs to do..I also prime an sand to take out any imperfections to me thats what primer is all about.A sandable base coat that u can build an sand.I don't worry when I go too deep on the last sanding as i use a opaque white or black as a base coat when I paint em..I generally end up with 2 coats of primer that are sanded down to a very thin layer.I think keeping the paint layers thin will add to the durablity of the finish.I have this hard plug then a hard top coat the last thing I want is to have a big buildup of soft paints in between..

Tony ,, do you thin the SB 112 ? acetone ?

No I use it full strenght.
I heat the plugs up around 275 an it sucks in pretty good.
I pour it in the hook holes an the wire holes an worm it around in there with a long pipe cleaner..
I love it with cedar or pine..Only Ok for ayc.
U have to watch the weight on ur metal lips..
Or change em up as u'll kill the action.
Nothing like it for pencils..I destroyed everything else..NIB plugs hold up..It's nice when u have a good one.'
I had one I caught a ton of fish on till i finally lost it.
I shed a tear on that day..
Harder woods like maple I don't think it is thin enough an 50/50 of linsead/terps or whatever is better..

Ok, I cooked some plugs and sealed them with epoxy. That was a sticky job.

Will the gold zinnser primer work ok over epoxy or should I try something else? I've never painted over epoxy, it feels kind of like working backwards..

Thats what i use the gold can..
When I put the epoxy on the body i wear gloves an get all up in it..
U have to setr urself up. I wipe all the excess off the body.Wait a coupla dyas for it to cure good, lightly sand before I prime.

Thanks Tony.

I may "recant "... is that a word ... Doing pearl white plugs I can see pencil lines around the plug ,,,eyes,,bellyhole,,,weights ect. ... I may have to prime .. :splat: :bl2:

U could just do a light coat of opaque white underneath.
I have some auto air i do that with as it is a better paint..
Sometimes i will spray a dominant color like blue or red underneath pearl white foor a cool effect.
One of my favorites is pearl yellow over green..
Gives u that BMW color.I saw the car one day an said i'm gonna do that color.Turned out to be one of my fish killin favorites..
All paints createx..

I have some Wil-Bond.
If I'm feelin froggy I will use that right after light sanding the epoxy sealer...
Kinda like a dust off that helps bond the next coat..