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706
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I really hate the plastic sideplate on a penn 706. In the summer grease would leak out of it. A couple of weeks ago there were some 704 greenie sideplates for sale on another site so I bought one. Then I removed the 704 medallion. After butchering it trying to peen the 704 insignia flat I threw it out. I lightly sanded it and applied 2 coats of black enamel. Now what to do about the insignia. Recalling what another member said about a buffalo nickle fitting nicely I tried it. Next step is to add the counterweight like in The Fisherman and it should be sweet. And add a thin shin under the handle to time the spool.
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What is the counterweight mod? Do you attach it to the side of the rotor opposite the line roller?
I once tried to explain the "thin shim under the handle to time the spool" to a penn rep at one of the shows and he had no idea what I was talking about. |
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Here is part of the article. It is in the March 1 edition of the Fisherman
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thanks
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Here it is with the shim under the handle. (6mm stainless flat washer)
spool up and handle down. |
Nice job Mac, I love the buffalo head
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Any chance someone can fax or email me that article?
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i own a new 706z, i've never fished it, will this one need to be balanced? (i'm not sure why this is being done) or is macs. reel being balanced because of switching out the side plate?
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It doesn't need to be balanced. It's a matter of personal preference. And the side plate has nothing to do with it being out of balance. It's due to Penn never putting a counterweight opposite the pick-up arm in the 706 cup. They have one in the 704, but not the 706.
If you're used to a super-smooth reel with a balanced rotor, the wobble in the cup might bother you. Many people fish 706s just they way they come. |
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Thanks. |
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the first picture shows the washer. (6mm stainless) 2nd shows it in place.
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Thank you. I can't wrap my small brain around why this will affect the position of the spool as it relates to the position of the handle but I will certainly give it a try.
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It works because when the handle is fully tightened it is in a different position versus the reel body than when it came from the factory. You can see what I am talking about by simply removing the washer and then putting the handle back on. |
Mac, what is used for the counterweight inside the spool? Something home made?
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As far as the handle shim goes I'm going to assume this will also work with a bailess 704(?).
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My only gripe with it has been cranking the handle over and over again till the handle was pointing back,the spool was fully extended and the roller was in its proper position. The proper sized washer and voila!Who woulda thought?Not me. Guess I ain't no engineer! |
Great tip on the washer MAC-thanks
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This is it. (home made) 3/16" aluminum. you can buy a piece of flat stock from Homies for about 6 bux. |
Thanks MAC
Mac,
Thanks for the tips. I just got in the mail a 704Z from an auction on eBay and hopefully be getting a 704 in the mail in the next day or two. I went out and got some of those washers and now my 704Z is 'timed' correctly - with the handle in the proper position for casting the spool is all the way extended. Without the washer 'shim' the spool was almost all the way in with the handle in what I would consider the casting position. Now I just have to get the manual bail for it - right now the bail does not snap back when you start to reel. Want to convert it to bailess anyway. Pete |
That little washer trick worked great on my 710. Thanks for the tip.
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