Loose Through Hull
 

Went to replace a valve on the bronze Thru hull and the whole thing turned.
So I'm gonna have to remove and redo the whole thing.

SO.......
How do i keep it from turning when i tighten it?
ALso, anyone know what kind of sealant/adhesive I should use for this, I think the regular old silicon won't do it.

Also someone told me the through hull should be "grounded" to a zinc. The boat never had one and i've not had any corrosion trouble so I'm not sure about that.

Suggestions are welcome.

Anything below water line 5200

Cool, but how do i keep it from spinning?

5200 and another person to hold while you tighten.

Van,

If it is just a regular thru hull with no strainer etc on the outside........many thimes if you look in the fitting from the outboard side you'll see a couple tits inside the hole. You can usually find something, piece of flat bar or the square head of a breaker bar to grab the tits for someone to hold while your turning.

There are an infinite amount of good underwater sealants. 5200 one of the best and most popular. Get the fast setting one. The regular 5200 takes days to cure.

Make Tom put down his beer or Capt & Coke for 5 minutes and have him hold it !!!

Google Image search for Step Wrench - these are designed for thru hulls...

Some of them have slots in the outter part...

Cool, I'm sure I can make something up pretty quick.
After all, I got that shop.:kewl: ;)
maybe a pipe with two cut outs....I can mill them out.

Fast curing 5200, I'll go to west marine and pay thru the nose !:err:


Anyone here about this "grounding" of the thru hull?
I 'm pretty he said attached to a block zinc on the transom.

But like i said, I don't have a corrosion problem with it.

Yeah, eventually electolysis will eat up a bronze thru hull, I guess that's why a lot of the manufacturers use plastic now. I would think if you just grounded it(they usually have a grounding bolt on them) to battery neg. it would work, since the battery neg. is grounded to the motor anyway. I tried to Google it but came up with nothing, I'm gonna keep looking though, I'll post if I find anything else.
I had mine grounded to battery neg. and didn't have any electrolysis in the 5 years I had my boat.

Found this:"You need to wire together all your underwater bronze
thru hulls and run a grounding wire to the engine
block to avoid electrolysis."

http://list.sailnet.net/read/messages?id=24370

Hope that helps.

I consider 5200 a permanent install. It's a real PIA to remove anything installed with it. That said, remember, your fittings can be attacked by the electrolysis coming from a neighboring boat, whether in a slip or on a mooring.

Just went to West marine ONLINE to look at fittings and I saw an article on grounding. here what it said about thru hulls. I think this apples to mine.

Zincs and Protection from Galvanic Corrosion

An isolated bronze thru-hull doesn't need protection because it is not in electrical contact with another immersed dissimilar metal. If electrically isolated, high quality marine bronze, is electrochemically stable in seawater; nothing good can come from connecting wires to it.

Worked out well thanks for the help.

Got that 5200 quick cure and it worked great. Got everything apart with out much trouble. Then got ripped off at West for a new valve 34$.

To get the fitting out, I took a 14mm deep socket and used a die grinder to make the perfect tool. Should be floating this weekend.

Ok, let skip the grounding part and get back to the lil titties, lol