Rewiring plastic plugs
 

Has anyone here ever rewired a plastic plug? A fisherman I used to know did it by heating the through wire up and pulling it out with a pair of pliers once the plastic softened a bit. He would then reinsert a new through wire and finish it off. Obviously, this can't be done with every plug model, but I believe this guy did them with super strike needles and plastic atom 40's.
I have a bunch of custom atom 40's that are weighted, but have no swivel in the middle hole, its just the front hook and tail loop that can be used. I'm looking to install swivels in the open hole but need to remove the through wire to facilitate this. Any ideas, or better yet, experience with this?

I looked at a amber one I have just so I could see.Looks like The wire goes thru the plastic an goes thru the swivel.which is in the hole.(not in the plastic).I think if u heat the wire an pull it out the swivel should drop out.The probelem is Ur gonna lossen up the plastic around the wire by the swivel an Water is gonna have a way in.Maybe if u take some silicone an smear it in the hole where the swivel goes prior to inserting the swivel it might work.If they are weighted u have to watch what they are juiced up with.Lots of old time loaders used mercury..

^Tony,

These ones were loaded by Atom with lead, so they are actually in new/original condition. In additon to removing the wire I would need replacement wires as the tail loop needs to be cut off so the wire will pull out.

Well There's guys up there who can hook u up..
I would straighten out the tail end to heat it up. U'll have to heat both ends.
Be patient,Let the heated wire do it's thing.Twist it back an forth lightly.This will break the bond to the plastic.U don't want to break the wire.then ur done.
Why bother, contract out someone who can make u one to match it..Have Numbskull exray it.
Ur just gonna thro eels anyways..I'd do it for ya but u guys didn't invite me to play so no..:D

U know, I'm a slow thinker..The wire runs in a little channel that is actually inside the plug itself.Not to worry about water seepage.If no one up there can help ya out send it to me.I can breaK the wire off as good as anyone.

Do you have an electric welder? If yes, hook the leads to the wire nose and tail. Give it a little juice and increase until the wire is hot.

Also some one will chime in about hooking it up to a car battery.
I read it in Lyman's book also.I would not recommend it..

If you use a car battery you'd better have about 1/4 mile of wire on it. I've seen batterys explode. Acid everywhere. It'll Eff you up good. Remember Ray Charles? Only without the music....

Use a battery charger to heat it

**I am not an electrician**

If you use a power source (battery, whatever) use some kind of resistance so you don't create a direct short. They have resistors that would work, but I imagine a light bulb would as well. Just try not to electricute yourself.

Is the weight directly connected to the wire? If not cut the tail loop off, pull the wire out and reinsert a new wire with the swivel and loop the tail. I do this all the time with plastic poppers that are exact duplicates of creek chubs so it should work the same way for the atoms and the needle.

Hope this helps and if I can be of any further help just let me know.

Oh heating the wire is not a very good idea, the toxins released can make you sick and there is very little control over how the plastic will melt. Too hot and you totally ruin the plug, not enough and the wire just keeps reattaching itself only making you hotter.

Tight lines!

^ The weight isn't connected to the wire. I'll try just pulling it out and see what happens. I'm sure it will get %$%$%$%$ed up and I'll rue the day I considered fishing plugs again, but at least I tried.:doh:

As for the elctrical suggestions, I appreciate the input guys, but you're not going to get rid of me that easily.:laugha:

U laugh It was in the book along with a diagram.If I can find it I will post a pic.
Fish it with 2 hooks.Or find a old beater an make it the same weight with water.
U'll have to add equal amounts to both sides as there is a seam down the middle.

Screw it.
you'll just end up fishing eels anyways :whackin:

Bring a few by my place, we'll give it a shot. I'm a plugger too ya know.

I know u guys just wanna thro a skin on it.

I've actualy used that method to free bolts on parts that were frozen on outdrives....

These bolts were in a place where using a torch wasnt an option, a quick short circuit applied to the bolt head provided enough heat to expand the bolt enough to crush the corrosion between the SS bolt and the Aluminum surface...Once the bolt cooled, removeing the bolt was an easy task... no broken bolts .

In this case, I'd try a 6 Volt dry cell... no danger of explosions, and I'm sure it would generate enough heat to do the job...

I have done this one before on some old plastic 40's. Also had a wooden scud needle that needed new wire. The lead is poured right over the through wire, so I needed to melt the lead to get it out. It caught on fire for a moment, but I had planned on it and had a bucket of water nearby. I still laugh when I think of the face on my girlfriend as she stood by, yelling at me the whole time. :as:

That's the plan. It will likely work fine with just the front hook, but I was looking to add the second because its a fairly long plug.

Toby,

Are you saying you've rewired an atom 40 with success? If so, what type of wire do I need to replace the original? Also, how do you make the nose loop?