Garage floor paint
 

Shop is set up in a garage that had a lift for cars. I've painted the floor once before but it all came up throughout last year. Seems that the paint couldn't grab due to the oil that's made it's way in the concrete.

Any other paint I could use that would grab better or maybe something that would dry it out?

I am pretty sure you have to wash the floor down with some kind of acid wash stuff. They did that to the shop I work in when we put on an addition. They washed it down with something and then painted it after it dried. Still peeled up in a few spots though. I think they used some epoxy type concrete floor paint

YOU MIGHT HAVE TO SCARIFY THE CONCRETE FIRST,(BREAK UP THE SURFACE OF CONCRETE WITH A MACHINE,YOU COULD PROBABLY RENT ONE)
I HOPE THIS HELPS
KTG

Paul is right on the money.. the concrete must be etched with an acid wash for the paint to stick...

I'd do a quick check for moisture. Duct tape a one foot square of plastic, preferably clear, to the floor. Look at it the next day and see if there is condensation on it. If there is you will have a hard time getting any coating to adhere to it. If not and the floor is saturated with oil you might have to have some one shotblast it this will remove some concrete from the surface and give the coating something to grab. The other choice is do some snaptogether tiles that they make for garages, easier on the legs also. Hopefully the floor will be covered with sawdust anyways.

Wash with acid before you apply a paint onto surface. That etches the surface so the paint will adhere. Before you use acid find a power washer in your area that can clean the surface. Be sure they can capture the waste water from cleaning. You cannot remove all the oil but there are oilzorb products that will help.

Peeling in certain spots is what originally happened before the coat began to just come up even with the shop vac.

I just taped a piece of plastic on the floor and I will give it a look in the morning and check the progress. Just checked out the muratic acid and the clean-n-etch sealer.

I Just read that if the floor still holds moisture after the etching that the paint will never adhere.


I should have thought about redoing it in the summer :smash:

Call Sherwin Williams in Braintree (781) 849-0277
Ask for Eric Slater, he's the store manager. He's there until 7pm tonight. I see your location is New Bedford, but I'm sure he'll help you out and then let you know a location near you.

He should be able to give you some detailed ideas for how you can clean the surface properly and prep it. I'm willing to bet he's going to suggest you use an epoxy coating for a more durable solution.

He's my girlfriend's brother and just went through doing all the detailed research for their parents earlier this year.

Thanks JohnnyD, after laying a piece of plastic down for a night it had a ton of moisture build up under it.

I'm going to hold on until I have sometime to dedicate to it so I don't have to rush anything.

I give Eric a call either way. He'll at least give you a course of action given your situation. I mentioned your situation a bit while we were watching the game, and he did say that you'll have to acid etch it ( like many above mentioned) if you have oil on the ground. I missed the rest of what he said due to a deep pass from Brady to Moss.

You will have a tough time getting anything to stick if you had a lot of moisture. I would suggest snap lock flooring or nothing. If you find a coating that will stick let me know, the building industry has been looking since they made asbestos unavailable. Many older buildings had somewhat damp floors with cutback adhesive and vinyl asbestos tile (VAT). The asbestos fibers passed moisture thru the VAT and cutback adhesive and therefore the things would stick, put a modern solid vinyl tile down over a low VOC adhesive and you have a gooey mess and loose tile. Best of luck.