Sys3 Mirror Coat and E-tex
 

Just curious if anyoine feels there is a difference in the hardness of these products when they are cured.

I've been using E-Tex and measuring the components out via syringe (like I do for Flex Coat). I'm getting a tack-free cure, but I can still leave a mark with my thumb nail if I try hard enough -- is that common, or does this indicate a slight ratio problem?

Specifics

• Measured with syringe.
• mixed with plastic stick.
• Mixed in the basement, it's air-conditioned and dry.
• Spun for 3 hours at ~70 degrees in above conditions, then placed in an area heated from below (~90 degrees) for 12 hours.

Thanks for any input.

Eric

No matter what you use as a top coat it will not be able to withstand hook rash forever....

Mirror coat is harder, but it is brittle and can crack if it hits a rock.

If your plug is not very well sealed and it absorbs any water, the expansion/contraction of the wood will make mirror coat lift. I've had this happen with plugs that I take out of the current rotation. They were fine when I used them, but hang em on the rack and a few weeks later the epoxy is lifted off. When the wood dries out it shrinks and pops the finish.

I like sys 3 clear coat a lot and would recommend it over mirror coat. It goes on thinner. Just make sure you keep the plugs clean and use a soft brush to put it on. (ie if you have any oil from your fingers on it it will pull away from that spot and leave a void). On the plus side I have not had any issues with it lifting like I have w/ mirror coat.

Try the thumnail test on the olug you just received. It has Etex on it. ;)

etex is a little more flexible than mirror coat and i like that very much.

Mirror coat is rigid and will crack easier and cracking eventually leads to pealing.

System three clear coat is the best epoxy I've found, and by far the worst to work with.....so fussy and variable batch to batch that I'm hesitant to recommend it unless you are willing to suffer a long arduous learning curve.

I'm going to share this with a friend of mine -- this is exactly what happens to some of his plugs and he has been perplexed as to why -- thank you.

It does leave a mark -- I'm sure that's due to E-Tex's flexibility.

Does it hold-up over time? I know that question has a ton of variables...

I've read quite a bit about your headaches -- especially when mixing in small amounts...I think I'll leave Sys-3 alone for now.

I agree 1 million % with George, the best and the worst all in one but once you get it down it's worth the effort. Still trying to get it down all the time though. Mirror coat is the prettiest but way too brittle for my liking.

I think the most durable finish on a plug that I've fished is Afterhours'. I'd guess some of the commercial builders probably use chemicals beyond the scope of the average basement builder.

I am pretty sure Don still uses epoxy you can buy easily. He just does a really good job at applying it and controlling all the variables. Helps that he does a lot of plugs so he gets a technique down that he can repeat time and time again. I agree he has a very nice plug finish, and plug for that matter. He gave me a lot of info, direction, when I first started. One of the many good guys on this site.

Yep, Don's plug are impecable for sure
one of the nicest guys too :btu:
his epoxy is nice, the time he spends really shows


I have never had difficulty with system 3 clearcoat, maybe I've been lucky with the syringes.

Got to agree ...Afterhours plugs have the best epoxy finish out there,, hands down,, Definitely VERY durable...

The main things that I found with Systems Three clear coat was that you had to have the right mix of the two parts, you had to mix it up well, and it prefers temps around 70 with low humidity. It also takes 7 days to fully cure, though not tacky after 24 hours. Can be flipped, but better if spun. I always mixed it, got plugs ready for the spinner, mixed again, added some glitter, mixed again, and then mixed between plugs.

Jigman

I can tell you one thing about whatever you use............when you have a dehumidifier in the cellar or work are if its mixed right it drys well

Yup...humidity is a huge problem from paint to finish

Hey stinky how you been. :)
That is why I don't build a thing in summer too much humidity and I am sick of building plugs by May.

Awesome thanks for asking! Just had a clam/lobo boil for the inlaws...it was great but it did fire up the ole double dutch oven:fart2:

thanks for the kind words guys. i do use a commercial epoxy that is waterproof and has uv additives. i have a room dedicated to epoyxing-humidity and temp controlled. EXACT mix is crucial always pour hardner in first. as paul said after epoxying so many you develope a technique/method that becomes repeatable and almost second nature. i've tested many finishes and for me it's epoxy.