Cherry...Bomb
 

3 out of 4 plugs made with black cherry recently have swelled and split the topcoat. The splits have radiated out from the belly hook hole.

Two of the split plugs were sealed with Helmsman; one soaked for 75 minutes, one for 3 hours.

One of the split plugs was sealed with a Tung mixture for 3 hours.

The one plug that didn't split was sealed with thinned E-Tex.

Couple of questions:

1. Do any of you that seal frequently with thinned epoxy use that method successfully on hardwoods such as cherry, maple, birch, etc.? This was the first time I tried it.

2. Can anyone with experience using cherry recommend a sealer?

Thanks in advance.

Eric

In hardwoods, drill your hook holes parallel to the grain lines, rather than across them. Wood expands much more across grain than along it.
Soak in sealer for several hours and plan for the weight gain that occurs.
Prime inside your hook holes.

Thanks for the feedback, very helpful.

I heat and epoxy seal with straight epoxy in birch and maple had one split. That is one amongst probably a thousand. Heating helps big time.

Yesterday I sealed a soft maple plug in thinned E-Tex. I threw it in the microwave for 30 seconds and it was jeting out steam by the end...Wonder if that is normal or do I have a wet piece of wood?

The heated plug did seam to absorb more E-Tex. I had about an 8 dram mixture and the plug absorbed maybe 6 drams.

Eric,

I don't microwave I have a dedicated toaster oven that i heat the plugs for about 5 minutes or so and then epoxy coat the inside and outside. Sometimes the plugs will steam if you leave them in too long.

Been a while since I posted sorry 'bout that. As far a sealing hard wood. I use and trust the val oil mix that I started with a number of years back. Prior that my plugs got a primer and paint...that's it. The cedars didn't split, but just about every hardwood did. The fish didn't give 2 squats but I did. However what bothered me the most was not the cracked plug, hell almost all of my Atom poppers were being fished with cracks and chunks missing, what was worse was the action change. The more water that the plug absorbed the less it walked, swam or darted and they just got heavier to cast. I found myself carrying more plugs so that I could change 'em out when they started to fail. Thus my love affair with Val oil AND Zinsser (Zinnser?) oil based primer sealer. I think it was H'Islander (Kevin) that clued me in about Val oil as well as reading lots of posts on this and other web sites. The primer/sealer thing I just kind of figured out as I plodded along. I mix both of the sealers 50/50 with odorless Mineral Spirits (not the "green" variety). I think that pure gum turp is better, but I don't think it's all that necessary and I don't need the strong odor in my mini cave. I have recently started heating the wood (MW) prior to soaking in the Val oil mix. I certainly does seem to increase absobtion of the sealer. The only reason I say that is that they seem heavier when they come out and take noticably longer to dry. No I have not done comparison weighing and have no intention of doing so...I'm just confident that enough sealer is being absorbed. As someone posted some where absorbtion is only taking place at the cut off ends or anywhere that the grain has been crossed (belly holes etc.). Any way to make a long story longer:deadhorse: I think that soak time is important. This may be over kill, but I have time (retired) so I'll keep doing it. Hard woods, maple, cherry, birch, etc I soak for no less than 12 hours often over night (12+). Cedars (AYC, AWC, ERC etc. no less than 6 hours. These times are long and it takes 2 - 3 days drying time hanging in a very dry basement (2 dehumidifiers 24/7). They do seem to add a bit of weight, nope I haven't done any scale calculations because I don't care. The plugs then get 2 total baths in the Zinnser/MS (50/50) again with 2 -3 days dry time between each bath. I've discovered it necessary to punch out the tail holes (or whatever end is down) after the first couple of hours of dry time...Just don't stand under the plug, and put paper on the floor...I've had nicely primed and seald arms, shoes, shirts etc because the plugs hang from the rafters. What has all of this accomplished? Well I carry probably the same number of plugs (way to many), but a greater variety because the action of the plugs remains the same cast after cast, fish after fish (ya like I catch so many...NOT) No I have not carried a scale to "test" the weight gain or lack there of, the plugs just fish the same from when I snap them on to when I take 'em off. I've had plugs get quite beat up (mojo) with exposed wood etc. but they still fish OK. I'm sure that the etex sealing or any other method that I haven't tried work equally well, but I'm set up for this and it's working so I'll keep doin' it.

Check the size of the hole for your grommet, if it is to small and too much force is needed to put it in this will cause a split.

Thanks for the feedback, guys -- much appreciated.

I'm trying a new solvent-thinned epoxy as a sealer. It's a 2-coat process. So far it's working very well on hardwoods.

Best part is, the wood is totally sealed and ready for paint within about 10 hours (when using a hot box for curing).

I'll write something up seperately about this later.

Thanks again.

I too prefer this method and i think it is a little easier to control how much weight the plug gains too as you tend to leave it in a reg. sealer a little longer for hardwoods and sometimes it takes on too much weight. Doesn't seem to happen that often with the epoxy sealing but I have not done 100's yet so that theory may be just that a theory.

Eric,

I do not thin my epoxy at all. I find that the complete epoxy does well and never needed a reason to thin.

Kindest,
Billy

Billy,

I'd guess you skip the priming process and go right to the acrylics?

Eric,

Sorry for the late response. I still prime all my plugs.

Kindest,
Billy