KBS Diamond Finish
 

I'm wondering if anyone has tried this product thinned, as a sealer(?)

you can't paint it with anything but itself.

Thanks for replying, SB. I recently read through your posts about this product on another site.

Do you have any experience using Diamond Finish Top Coat? Kinda' wonder how Top Coat and ClearCoat bond with one another (as well as how well Createx will bond to Top Coat).

Here was my idea for use for it the 2 DF products:
1. Dip in DF ClearCoat thinned with KBS #1 Thinner as a sealer.
2. Dip in DF Top Coat (white)
3. Airbrush Createx acrylics
4. Dip in DF ClearCoat
5. Dip in DF ClearCoat

Scuff between coats.

See any obvious pitfalls?

I only have used it on some freshwater baits. No plans to switch to it. Don't like the bubbling problems that I saw. For home stuff it's pisser. Cannot take the chance of ruining 6-800 lures at a time.

You can't paint anything over it, it will not stick. Nothing sticks to it...it's in the directions.

Ah hell, that's right...Not sure why "graffiti proof" didn't register.

That is one of the things that led me to believe that is what it was...

The old joke "If nothing will stick to Teflon, what makes the Teflon stick to the pan?" popped into my head after reading that. If nothing will stick to the KBS, what makes the KBS stick to the lures? :huh:

Slightly off topic but I see on the website:

Would storing the can in the refrigerator keep it from setting up/curing prematurely? Would storing it in the refrigerator cause whatever moisture in the can to condensate speeding up the curing process and lowering the shelf life? Somebody has to ask the stupid questions. :smash:

My can has been opened quite a few times and has not setup yet over a few months. I have used a piece of stretchwrap plastic made for pallets on it each time before I put the cover on.

does this aid in keeping your pants cleaner on the inside?..no more skid marks:confused:

check it out :bshake: :rotf2:

:rotf2::rotf2::rotf2::rotf2::rotf2::rotf2:

Guys I just received a quart of diamond clear hi gloss. I contacted the company on using it on baseball bats. They said no problem and it's a super hard finish. I want to enhance the hardness of th wood. I was waiting for an answer I e-mailed today on painting over a primer-sealer coat. I think I got my answer. The primer-sealer coat is thinned 20% with their KBS thinner. I let you all know how it works. I also plan to dip a few plugs. i don't want to resort to enviro-tex.

billy i'd hit it with a clear sealer coat and then a thinned mix of kbs. If you didn't get their thinner then I'd get some, #1 I think. I'd do one thin coat and see how it looks the next day. Keep it thin though so you don't get bubbles. I don't know why this stuff has a co2 problem unless it was maybe an aluminum in the kbs maybe reacting with the moisture in the air.

Thanks Scott. I was thinking of that same method. Just not sure of what type of sealer would be compatible with the KBS on the natural finished bats. On the colored bats the sealer type shouldn't present a problem. I bought a gal of the #1 thinner. For now I will foam brush the finish. If all works out, I will rethink about a spraybooth and spray the finish on. I believe this product's ability to create a harder surface will enhance the product which is coated. I will be painting a few bats then coating the finish soon. I will reply with my results.

Well I done a dozen bats. ash bats with a primer coat cut 30% w/#1 thinner. Dry for 2 days sand w/320 paper clean w/ achohol then a finish cut. Extremely sdhiney and hard coat. the longer it dries the harder it seems to get. I did a couple of painted bats. Primer coat, sand 320 then full uncut coat. They look awsome. The only con is the effort I need to do to get these results. There is a eco friendly product called Eco-tuff clear coat. Waterbase and tintable. Has the hard finish like KBS, no odor and 1/4 the price. haven't tried it but will try this product also.

eco tuff is not water PROOF...it's water resistant...caveat emptor.

I see that. I guess it will be ok along as they don't play ball under water!! I did do a plug while I was doing a few bats last night w/KBS. Looks good. I'll keep updating as I go along.

billy, any more info on using it with plugs?

3 things to always keep in mind.1st there are no short cuts just half a--ed.2nd you get what you pay for.3rd water resistant don't work in saltwater or fresh water. Water proof does. Learned this with 40plus yrs of rod building. Every screw up you could do I've done.Ron

OK heres the deal. It's been over a year and a half coating and painting baseball bats. extreemly hard and diurable finish. I do thin the [product approx. 10-20% with their Number 1 thinner. Foam brush the thinned coat as a primer/sealer. Scuff the primer/sealer coat with 320 grit and a gray pad. Clean with denatured alcohol then coat with a full coat of KBS clear coat. Their are times I do a second coat for a deeper finish. My bats are funtional and asthetically appealing. My users mainly ex college ball players and minor leaguers swear that the ball seems to fly/rebound of the bat because of the Diamond Clear Coat. Whatever it's easy to apply. I still don't spray it because of no explosion proof spray booth. The one con I found of this product is the shelf life after it's open. Yes sealing the can with clear wrap is one way to keep it from getting hard I finally gave up and have poured all the contents into a canning jar and vacuum pack it with my vacuum sealer food saver. Drawing out the air keeps the product w/o the skimming coat and possible hard contents. This stuff runs for me w/shipping 57.00 per quart. gotta be able to keep from thowing money out in the garbage. i could use a clear lacquer to c oat bats but I believe this product gives the bat an extra edge. when a customer ask for a colored bat I use the thinned product then let dry for 3-4 days then scuff and paint with enamel based paint. Recoat after 4 days to let the paint release any gases then apply a full strength coat. No pealing and/or comeba cks. sorry to get off the beaten path on plugs but this product is waterproof. Use at least 2 coats, scuff between coats. I would dip the diamond clear coat. 2 dips. You can dip w/in the same day. It's moisture cure so humidity doesn't hinder curing. Drys w/in 2 hours to touch. It's not the depth finish of epoxy but I've got a couple plugs done for experimenting and it's fine for them. My bitch is the lack of shelf life if air gets into container. I've talked with company reps on a different way to package for smaller uses i.e. a tapper can to draw product or a sealing can that can be hooked up with a simpler vacuum device.

i was looking at this Diamond Finish in CC tackle site, want to know what others have experience about it when trying to replace etex,what's the difference between Diamond and etex?
strength,durability and how does it brush on plugs,how many coats?

I've had a can for quite a while since I don't make many plugs .. Use to be Macs ,, that tells you how old it is .. The can has never been open from the top . Just and S10 self tapping screw in the bottom edge. drain off only what I need ..

have you apply it on any plugs?

Dave, I use Diamomd coat clear exclusively for sealing and clear coating my baseball bats. I searched for a hard durable 1 part finish and found this product. Spoke with the product manager on my use. I apply a thinned version of 10-20% with their Diamomd thinner. A few drawbacks which I have discussed with the company is the fact that you have to seal the container and have it free of air. If you store this clear coat and air is impregnated in the container the material will harden. @ $50.00 a quart plus shipping thats no good. I currently store my material in glass canning jars and use a vacuum sealer to draw air out. This is a PITA. Utilizing a drain off system will help especially for small amounts. On saltwater applications, 3 coats by dipping, spraying or brushing gives the best results. I done a few plugs but haven't changed to it completely do to the stroring process. I brush the stuff on with a foam brush for the bats. It comes out great. PS the smell is a killer. It's moisture cure. Dries quicklyw/o heat.I'll show you a bat I finished over the weekend.

THANKS BILL, so i have to get a bunch of small jars and transfer it over and use it as i go? do i need to use the spinner for that application?

No spinner. If you dip let it drip off. You can brush on and hang. Easy.

thanks bill,see you at the next meeting.