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Bike Rear and The Weight of the Rigged Crate.
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Alright, guys. I have finally set up the canal bike tonight and it took me about 30 minutes with a bit of experimentation, but it's not as good as any of yours. I am sure of it, but it's doable and sturdy. I put a short rod holder on the side of the milk crate with two metal clamps and secured them firmly and tightly. I also used the computer tabs that are 33% stronger than the average tabs to secure the basket on my bike rear rack and tied all over it.
Then I decided to put the surf bag and rod and to do a test run around Newton for 5-10 minutes. It was going nicely. Then it was starting to get heavy. I own a shimano trek 1400 or something. I ain't no mountain bike wiz. I know that it might be a dumb question to you canal rats or any of avid mountain bikers, can the total weight of the plug bag, rod, rod holder, lures in the bag, and bodyweight really affect the rear tire while riding? I just hope that I don't have to keep pumping the air into it every minute. This happened in 5 minutes or so. Any inputs are greatly appreciated, people! |
In my opinion, and as with any inner tube, if you have anything that maybe puncturing or getting close to puncturing it, then the added weight could have finished it off.
As far as your weight question, if you are with in reason the weight doesn't necessarily cause flats unless you are way over the limit. i have a 1970's Sears and Roebuck 10 speed with the ultra thin tires, they take 90 pounds of pressure and i load that sucker up, plus my 300 pounds without any problems, so i would check for obstructions in the tire that could have caused your tube to go flat. |
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Your tubes/ tires suck. I carry 1500 pounds not including fish. And 2500 including fish. Only kidding! Do the math yourself. Picture your rear tire when riding alone and then picture it with the fat girl from summer camp stomping on your sweet pegs.
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Haha. I figured out the math. -_- |
the tire is ten years OLD
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The only recommendation I'd have to to get the weight as low on the bike as you can to improve handling and also make it less likely to tip over. Keep the weight between the axles as opposed to cantilevered off the back too...Have fun and stay to the right.
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Leak, place the rear tire over standing water and look for air bubbles.
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make that soapy water and it will blow a bubble
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all of my bikes (3) require topping off air every couple pf weeks. 2 have new tubes. maybe it's the co2 i use???
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you need helium Don :rotf2:
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Notaro, Replace the tube an tire. They make a better tire for mountain bikes that's like a road tire without the nobby tread. get a good pump an keep it in your vehicle an pump the tires when your going to use it. I used to do a huge amount of riding before I broke my shoulder at work. I go 230 and with gear an such well it adds up.I have a friend that rides a road bike that goes 320. He just keeps his tires pumped an has no problems.Low tire pressure will cause failure do to the tube being pinched by the rim.That bike shop in bourne has the tires an good tubes.He can even order you one of those nice 2 legged kick stands to the keep your chariot from falling over when you park it. Ron
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keep in mind that like car tires, or any inflatable you may need to check pressure from time to time, however it should be a minimal loss, perhaps cheap tubes or old ones. replace em and check your tires for any this that can cause a flat..
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NOT WORTH IT!!!!! Fix the tire.... :wavey: |
Bike tires constantly slowly lose pressure, it's normal, especially with higher pressures. It shouldn't be losing air quickly though, such as in just a few minutes of riding. If it is, replace the inner tube.
On my road bike I usually check the pressure and add air before every ride. They lose 5 to 10psi, down from the 115 I ride at usually within 24 hours. Mountain bike tires can generally go longer between checks due to the lower pressure. Afterhours' every couple of weeks pace sounds about right to me. Remember that like your car, most tires have a "max pressure" listed on the side. This is unlikely to be the pressure you should set the tire to unless you are REALLY loading up the bike. Too low, you'll have high rolling resistance, be prone to getting pinch flats, and the bike will feel unstable. Could even roll off the rim if the pressure is really low. Too high, it'll be a bouncy, harsh ride and the tires are more vulnerable to sharp objects. Just right and you'll roll along easily on a tire that shouldn't bounce or skip and will absorb small bumps. "Just right" is dependent on the weight you put on the tire, more weight requires more pressure. There is no harm in a little bit of experimenting and given the way the bike is set up having more pressure in your rear tire then your front. Many riders without a rack, gear, and fish on their bike keep higher pressure in their rear tire. |
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Also make sure you actualy set the pressure properly. If your going by the feel of the tire when inflating you could be way off. Average pressure for mountain bikes is 45-65 psi depending on tire width (check the sidewall of tire for recommended pressure). Use a pressure gauge to be sure. I set mine about every two weeks and I carry a ton of gear.
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I just filled up the tires at the gas station and the bike was okay for me to ride on Nantucket with fishing gears. I guess that I'll do what Tysdad115 and Pete_G do. Thanks, guys!
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On the way home, we stopped by Benny's and $30 later put together a kit with a new tube, patch kit and hand pump. Came in handy about a year later when a similar thing happened while we were camping in Falmouth. Sure was happy to have the spare then. |
I'll carry a spare tube then. lol.
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30-34psi works good for most MTB (>2.0") wide tires...
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would it affect the tires with or without the extra weights from a plug bag, rods, and etc?
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just how many plugs and stuff are you carrying?
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