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plug drilling jig
how do you guys get the plug level to drill the eyes, hook and weight holes, also the lip slots, i tried free hand too sloppy..thanks, john
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Some guys leave the square ends on the wood. Personally I just use a simple piece of wood that I cut a "V" groove in on the table saw...Works just fine and the fish don't care...
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I agree with the quote, "the fish don't care" They do look cool though.... |
So many ways to accomplish this. Using the search will probably reveal someof them to you. I prefer the v block method and not the sq end because I like to hydro orient the wood for swimmers and darters, especially after a conversation with Donnie Musso he told me that it is important to do so. I figure he is a hell of a lot smarter than I am when it comes to plugs. Some, many , will probably say why bother but that is why we build plugs so we can make them how we want. Hydro can't be accomplished with sq. ends on. So check the search . this will start you out, read away. Have fun. Paul
Striper Talk Striped Bass Fishing, Surfcasting, Boating - Search Results |
link didnt work for me, that water hydro idea sounds interesting, ill search more but if you can try the link again that would be great, thanks!
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Ends on here.....makes it pretty simple to drill all the holes.
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take a look at my thread on upgrading my shop.. there is a picture of the plug drilling jig on one of my lathes ( the one on the green bench)..
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3 Attachment(s)
this should help..
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now that is cool also having issues with thru drilling ,,, bit walking thru the side or whatever , or wereever it wants to go
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i like that bit in pic three.. what kind is that? so the jig will hold plug level - how do you figure 90 degree, just eyeball?? /
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The jig can take lipsless or plugs with a lip... if using it with a plug that has a lip, the head stock is flipped ( held in place by two screws) the lip slot slides on a piece of thin sheet metal.. and a pin goesin the through hole.. the tail stock pin holds the rear.. when using it for darters (like in the picture) it is reversed and a screw inserted in the plug to hold it fast.... the jig was made so the tail stock and lip slot ( or screw) are peerpendicular... a wooden fence on the drill press is set to the correct depth... it is a simple matter of lining up the mark on the belly and the drill to drill the holes.... |
I've used both methods and prefer ends on. Much easier to get things square that way.
Try long brad point bits for thru drilling. And DON'T RUSH. |
My thru drilling jig is a simple slab of plywood with a screw protruding about 1/8". Clamp this to your drill press and be sure to center the chucked up drill to the screw tip. Mark your plug body and drill from both sides, a little at a time. It workes every time. I picked this up from a video on this site "Seven Minute Plugs".
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I've been "hydro orienting" plugs for years...as Donnie Musso probably knows as well is that different densities in the wood will affect the orientation of a floating plug, no matter how much weight is added to correct the float...
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One easy way to line the eyes up is to mark the plug body while still on the lathe after you sand it with a pencil. Make a mark on the plug where your eye's,belly hook or any weights are gonna go. Turn on the lathe and as the plug body is turning gently touch the pencil to where the mark is showing and it will mark a line all the way around the body of the plug. This will give you a good guide for your drilling. works great especially if your gonna do several or a batch of plugs.Ron
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