Eel Rod Setup
 

I'm currently building a GSB 120 1M for an eel rod. Its going to be wrapped concept.

This is my first 120 1M and I'm curious if you guys who fish this blank a lot find it paired better with a VS200 or a VS250? I feel like the 200 will balance better but wanted to see what others thought. The rod will see most of it's use around rocky boulder fields. I also plan on using it when i know I'll be fishing most of the night under the light in montauk.

Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

either one will work really well. if your buying I'd get the 250 before the 200.

Thanks chief. I have both, I'm just debating which to lay the rod out for.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

i would recommend using a aluminum locking reel seat. the fuji ones let the vs slip to the side. the 200 is definately lighter. its what i orignally set mine up with. i use my 250 with a 1205 now.

the question you have with the VS line is how the models fit your style and rod selection.

the VS150 and VS250 are all I use.


The VS200 is a good all around reel for 9 to 10 footers, but the 150 is better on the 9 and smaller rods used for eeling (IMHO) where the bigger reel size reel will not help getting more distance sling those slimy critters and VS250/VS275 is what most beach guys go with for distance on 11 footers and longer.

I agree with the upgrading the reel seat as well.

I'd use a shimano bait runner ;)
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

250 - 1201m makes a great eel rod.

If you want to use both reels , build it for the bigger reel. It should also work well (maybe not optimum but still good) for the smaller reel.

Basically the same reel with less than an ounce difference in weight between the 200 (21.6 oz) and the 250 (22.4 oz). 250 has a larger spool (by 1/4 inch) which will help with casting distance. 200 has a lower line retrieve ratio (33.5 inches per turn) than the
250 (36.5 inches per turn) which would be advantageous for slowly retrieving eels. Have you considered going "old school" with cork tape handle and electricians tape - will provide more sensitivity for eeling IMO.
Both reels will work fine without any major deviations when building your stick.

DZ

another vote for 250.

I like the plate type-seat with tape. warmer, lighter and thinner than the alumninum locking seats...

x2

Specifically... what make, model number is right for 200/250 on a 1201?

Don't use aluminum. Use a Fuji Deluxe seat. The aluminum will be cold in your hand. The issues with Vs reels is apparently do to the lack of the plastic hood liner on the standard fuji seats. the deluxe seats have the line.

Better yet , take your reel to a store and try it in a rod with various seats and see how it looks and feels. Try an aluminum , a standard Fuji and a deluxe Fuji.

sorry. I dont know. someone else would have to chime in. i'm all most positive pac bay and aftco make them.

Thanks all - my gut was telling me 250, and I think thats what I'm going to go with.

Now I just need to decide on whether to use Fuji K Guides or the Fuji MNs...

KW's as stripper and reduction guides. KW's or MN's as choker and running guides. Not MN's the whole way.

for eels I would use the 1L not the 1M as for the reel, a 200 or 250 works not a big difference there.

Thanks Agro. I hear ya, I've heard guys argue either way on this, some like the L and some like the M. Truth is, I stumbled on to a 120 1M blank at a pretty good price, so I'm using that. Also, I had an L blank a few yrs ago and didn't love it. A buddy of mine has an L built to the Skinner Montauk Eel Rod specs, which I'm interested to try this summer when we go eeling together.

Also, I like the idea that I can carry a few big plugs with me and some small (3/4 oz) bucktails for when I'm fishing some certain areas where its handy to have both. I have two specific spots that I think this rod is going to get the most use in and for both of them the versatility is a key thing to have. The L wouldn't be able to handle some of the bigger plugs I'd want to throw (4oz Pikes).

I currently use the 1201L blank (matched with a VS250) but have modified it by taking a few inches of the tip to beef it up. Even so the blank still tends to "collapse" when throwing larger eels or normal size eels into a breeze. IMO the 1201M would work better with more power to throw larger eels and plugs. The 1201L is better when throwing smaller eels and when a long cast is not needed like on some cape beaches. The L also shines when you want more versatility to throw 1/2 ounce redfins, etc. The M would struggle to load with lighter plugs.

DZ

I have an 1L and its great with smaller eels but with snakes its a little to soft. personally I think the 1M is the best all around surf rod. And you cant go wrong with either a 200 or 250. I have a 200 on mine and i love the combo.

DZ, Bassballer, thank you. Your commentary is pretty consistent with the research I've done and my experience with the 120 1L blank.

Can't wait to use it. Too bad it's only January!
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

Either or its up to you really. They both have nice line capacity. I use a 250 on my 120 and a 300 on my 132. My 132 with the 300 is my baby that I use most of the time. I also love the extra foot when I am eeling. Gives me a bit extra on the drop. Good luck!

I purchased a rod last fall. I have not used it yet, but have high hopes that it will be a good eel rod and all around rig. It's a GSB 1321L with 2" trimmed from the tip and 4" from the butt (10'6" total length). I find 11' longer than I like. My favorite rod is my Loomis 1266. I'm hoping that trimming the tip will stiffen it up the right amount for it to really do a broad range of things fairly well. Just figured I'd post what I am hoping will be another option for this purpose. I throw plugs more often than eels but I think this will work for all but the larger sizes.

Surfcasterwhile you are checking reel seats out, check out the Fuji NPS Ergonomic reel seat. Very comfy, warm and fits the reels much snugger. Another way to tighten a VS is to wrap electrical tape around the tip area of the reel foot front & back.

Bill - my last time eeling was with you (the night before hurricane Irene! And the night after your 40). I used my 1321M that night. I'm looking to get something a little shorter as I swim to some of the spots I plan on eeling a lot this yr! And yes, I'm going to use my 250.

Pbadad, thanks for the tip.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device

Ahh yes -- How are ya? Thought we would have done a little better then we did that night. Going swimming hey? Is your feeling that the extra foot is going to give you a little more mobility? Also you may want to consider a different guide layout if its just for out on the rocks. They may give you a better feel of fighting fish, but have you ever had to thread your line through all the concepts while on the rocks in th edark with a big wind in your face? It aint fun! Also you have more guides to break while your out there. I guess you have to weigh the advantages vs disadvantages. I don't swim really, but the guys I know that do stay away from that guide layout. But-- go for it-I prefer apples you pmay prefer peaches.. Hee heee. Also like to hear what you think after a season.

Bill - Hope you're well! We had high hopes for that night too, but hey that's fishing for you. Yes, I like the idea of a bit shorter rod while swimming. I think the added mobility will be nice. Also, in some of the places I have in mind, distance is not hugely important. If fishing a spot where I really need the distance, I can always break out the 11M.

As for the concept guides, I fished all last yr with them and swam with them and it wasn't an issue. Now, I admit COF would be much easier to run line through, but like you said - pros & cons.

you've received some good advice so far. i'll give you some of my rod and reel advice:

1.) i would NOT recommend an aluminum reel seat. full parabolic blanks and aluminum reel seats can cause rod failure.
stick with a fuji DPSM or DPSD seat. yeah, the VS reel foot can move. i've purposely twisted my VS250 45 degrees off center to prove a point. but, once locked in the seat, i've never had issues. just don't over-tighten or you can pull the locking screw from the reel foot hood. if you go NPS, make sure if fits you reel. they don't fit all reels.
2.) incorporate a new guide concept system in your rod build. a well built NGC will outperform a COF built rod and the rod will feel very responsive, as well as fight fish better.
Saltheart put you on the right track for guides.
3.) a VS200 will outcast a 250 because the spool is narrower. i would only suggest a 250 if you ever want a reel that can also handle tuna. or else, a 200 does what you need.

1201m matched with a vs200! :love: