ANOTHER NCP ?
 

Ok, I have this 1201M I'm doin for a friend. He wants blue/gold. Ok I tell him I don't prefer CP on overwraps for epoxy penetration. So I go outside the box I look at the NCP color chart. Compare colors and find Royal Blue Gudebrod. Do a sample wrap of other blues (nylon) along w/ NCPblue. The nylons were too dark but the NCP was perfect. One catch, the first coat pills up like a bad hair day. I say now what:fury:. Once cured the finsih looks like 50 grit sandpaper. Well let's put a heavy second coat over. Looks perfect, smooth and has depth. I did the rod but instead of doing a big glob of epoxy I wet sanded lightly w/ 400 grit w/d paper to knock off the high peaks. Put on my normal second coat and you'd never know what was there b/4. Now after this long winded post, has any one had this occur when using Gudebrod? Why the question because I did use occassionally Pac bay Stay true w/o this pilling up.

Last month I finished up an IGFA 80 Calstar used Gudebrod NCP, green, yellow and charcoal. Was a little dissapointed what the charcoal looked like after finishing but whatever.......however what I will tell you is I used a size A double underwrap with green. First time I ever saw this it was a bit fussy and hence the first coat of finish was like 60 grit. This being a HD tuna rod it needed 4 coats and by then you'd never know. After the job I tossed that spool of A green away figuring something was not right with that spool. This rod I ended up scuffing up the wrap finish with scotbrite before the next coat, i don't usually do that but am thinking about doing it more often.

Did a nice maze decorating wrap on the butt looks nice.

Don't use it much ( NCP) but I have had it happen as well. We don't need to worry about Guberod NCP anymore anyhow!!

Why? What didn't I hear yet?

I read they're folding up. Again.

You can sometimes get a really ratty spool of thread. Its not unique to gudebrod. The less you play with the finish between coats the better off you will be. Accasionally there is a problem the second coat will likely not cover up. In these rare cases only the very highest peaks need to be snipped off using a razor before the second coat. The fact is that the more you touch that first coat at all , the more likelyhood you create of having "fisheyes" develop when you apply the second coat.

Its a shame gudebrod thread will no longer be available.Its been the most solid choice for rod building thread for decades now.

I did notice that as soon as the epoxy hit the thread it picked up. The thread was perfect b/4 the epoxy went on. I guess it's the thread's characteristic. Pac0bay stay true did not do this. Anyway I need a light third coat to get a glass coat. More food for thought the next time someone wants color overwraps. I'll be doing metallics for colors if they insist. I see CTS uses alot of metallic overwrap on their rods. I seen them today @ RISAA and ask them about their results. Never any issues. Looks really nice.

You need to watch using metallics at least on guides. I have had it work just fine and I have had it move on me. what I have had happen is the thread over time would slip all coated in epoxy and make gaps. My guess is the metal would not allow the epoxy to penatrate and really bite into the thread. Like I said some rods no problem and others it would happen.

Appreciate the advice. I always wondering why I didn't see metallics used much on overwraps

One trick that works with bad hair thread is to take an alcahol burner and lightly go back an forth under the thread an the bad hairs will go away. You just need to make sure you don't get too close. Bad hair thread is normally from end runs at the production line.You;ll find it with all threads from time to time. as far as metalic over wraps go make sure you keep them tight and burnish the thread while wrapping to keep it tight together as guides will slip even when epoxied if it's done loose. Looks great though. Ron

Ron,

Burning the threads in normally works for loose little bits. In my case I did this and after the first coat you would think I didn't. Like I said I think it was a thread issue, with enough coats it disappeared. You really have to be careful burnishing metalics, sometimes too hard and you rip out a bit of metal and then have to spend the time to closely snip etc....got that t shirt.

I don't use metallic overwraps often but if you have the Gudebrod HT metallic it can be done. Any other metallic and I would be worried about strength.

One of the hardest things that I've found with metalics is the amount of flaws within the spools of thread.I've had to send a few spools-1 oz- back to the company. This adds to the problems with it.tension is something that is esential in using it.Teflon is about the only good burnishing tool working with it. they can be found in some of the art sales shops.Once a bad wrap is found I just bite the bullet and re wrap the rod as the work to fix is more than redoing it with multiple coats of epoxy which affect the rod action especially with the new light weight scrims an nano tech used itn the process. Murphy is all rodbuilders friend LOL and worst enemy.As manufacturers keep cutting corners and buy overseas it will get worse.If you've run across this more than a couple times get rid of the thread and try another one.I've run across this 3 times in over 40 yrs of wrapping rods.Just some food for thought.By the way there is still a load of Gudebrod thread out there if you search around. Ron

Some spools are rediculous. You're lucky to get 40 yards withoiut a glich. I just throw those spools away.Not worth my time to play around redoing stuff over a $5 spool.

so true