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tail weight mold??
hello guys, I was wondering if anyone out there has a mold for making tail weights that they would like to sell, trade or loan out. I had tried many times to make one with very little success.
thanks Rene |
can't spare a mold, but this is how i made mine.
buy 2 pieces of 1" thick graphite plate.. how ever long you want to line up the holes. buy some stainless rod stock that will be the size of the hole in the weights. drill a series of holes 1 inch longer than you want the weights that are the same diameter of the stainless rods right down the seam of the 2 pieces of graphite that you have clamped together. use those holes as pilot hole to drill out the size that you want for your tail weights. drill only as deep as yo want the size of the weights to be. carefully drill through the 4 corners to allow a 1/2 stainless rod to slide through to hold the 2 pieces together and not slip when you clamp before you pour your lead. spray stainless rods with wd40 before you pour so they slide out easily. |
You can easily do the above.
I have a older one that I drilled myself that I could lend out. |
Good luck man, i have been looking for a while.
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more about graphite..
I use this stuff a lot with hot glass. It takes heat like a champ and is easily machinable. If you use graphite, buy fine graphite and for the love of god, stick a shop vac hose next to your drill bits. You don't want that dust getting all over your shop. i get my graphite from the graphite store on the web |
Pretty cool -- never heard of using graphite for lead molds. Does the graphite burn at all, or no?
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I pour 2200 degree glass into graphite .. It does not burn at all. It also heats up super fast, so all you have to do to pre heat it is to hit it with a propane torch for a few seconds, or do one sacrificial pour.
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Nebe, how is ir to drill, nvr worked with graphite this way
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Thanks Nebe, I think I might try it this winter.
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I only used it because I have a lot if it... But I tell you what- it's superior to aluminum on all fronts except durability. You don't want to drop it. It can chip.
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You can do all the above but it is much easier to just pester a machinist until he breaks down and makes you one to get you off his back. Just be persistent and don't take no for an answer. :devil2:
If you have to do it yourself, drill the weight hole slightly undersized so you can slide the lead into the hole in your plug more easily. You don't need stainless for the pull-rod. You can buy piano wire at the hardware store that works well. Buy something larger than the wire you use on your plugs (I think I bought .074) which makes it a lot easier to wire your plugs once assembled. |
Numby you know how those machinist are, they come with their own excuse book. Lol
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Hey I resemble that remark.
Posted from my iPhone/Mobile device Ok get a blank do it mold and supply me with some pins you want to use and what size you want leads to be and I will drill you one out on my schedule for a reasonable price, unless you are a doctor, you will pay they the nose. |
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There you go Mugz is volunteering.
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thanks guys for the advice. i have made a few in the past drilled wrong pins always getting stuck it was easier buying the weights, but I have a lot of lead and already make my own belly weights. oh yea... i'm not a doctor... well kinda, but with cars and trucks not humans... that's again Rene |
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You are more than welcome to borrow my mold....I just want it back, along with a 12 pack. :buds:
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A Mayan pyramid maybe.
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:rotf2:
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:jester::jester::lurk:
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I have a mold that eastendLu made (Lu Tool) It's a half round on one side and a flat key like ridge protruding on the centerline of the other. It yields a half round weight with a key slot running up the center. When you put two half rounds together you have the wire hole ready made. The mold plate has several diameters along one side.
Most pissah! |
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