Stairwork
 

Another house...more stairs to build.
Brazilian cherry treads were $112 each!

looks good, can't wait for more pics along the way and the finished product.

Nice one Bob.
My son just finished one and he came up with a way to pocket screw the riser to the skirt.
Save the scrap for plugs?
It's still blowin :fury:

So what's the secret to absolutely making sure they never squeak?

-spence

In your case, just lose some weight.
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Whoa........
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More pictures..... kitchen and stairs.

More to follow

Your work is immaculate but please to god don't let them put a TV above that fireplace :smash:

-spence

Stairs are ready for posts and rails.
Master bath in progress.

Spence ...I have been building stairs this way since the mid seventies and never have had any problems with squeaks.

It takes a while to learn the "secrets" of the trade so I'm a little guarded about giving them away. :)

Actually it is mostly tight fitting joinery and lots of glue.

As far as the tv above the fireplace I have no say in that. It has been the location of choice by our customers for the last 10 years or so, since the advent of flat screen.

Last time someone built me some stairs I said I don't want any squeaks. They were fit tight, he used tons of glue. They still squeeak :smash:

As for the TV that's a pet peeve of mine. It's aesthetically annoying, seems to be functionally problematic and always puts the TV too high off the ground. But, I guess the customer gets to put it where they want.

Nice work regardless. Great to see stuff done right...

-spence

Thanks...I agree that it puts the tv too high spence.
Regarding the squeaks... I'll admit that I left out the secret part.:uhuh:

Fix for existing stairs
 

Poplar is a more stable wood than pine, and is why I recommend poplar for trim where budget allows. It also holds fasteners better. Stairs have dozens of parts, so they can and do loosen up over time. If it is the front of the tread that squeaks, tighten it up by refastening to the riser it is rubbing against. If it squeaks in the rear, refasten to the stringers. Predrill, angle at approx. 45 degrees from either side of each stringer and be sure to set the nail below the surface. Also helps if you have someone standing on the tread to load it down on the stringer. Single fasteners set straight in will loosen up.

Not sure what his secret part is though....

start with a good foundation, the framing can't be done by a hacker. any flex in the framing, will compound it but I agree, tight joints and plenty of glue to do the work. I like PL Premium, but nailed well because that stuff expands.

Slip...unfortunately the subcontracted framers, who build the rough stairs, make my job more difficult because of the errors they make. Before the house is drywalled I go and check the rough stair framing.
It's not unusual for me to have to remove them entirely, and reframe them correctly. We have tried getting the framer to correct them, but they usually hack them a second time. I have no interest in teaching, especially to those who speak no English.

Beyond that, there are some techniques I have developed over the years (hundreds of stairways) that strengthen the entire staircase and do prevent squeaks.

and you SHOULD keep those techniques you've developed to yourself just like fishing spots, they will help ensure your results and success.
theses days it's best to be wanted for your quality, good for job security. I had a similar case a couple years ago, the framer hacked it, then the homeowner too cheap to pay me to do it right had the framer chop it again and we ended up sistering new framing in in order to do the job. It is similar to the framed walls in kitchens that use any old 2x4 no matter how bowed or out of level, makes cabinet install very challenging to say the least, I've been known to cut into a 2x4 part way the from the other side brace against it, set cabinets , then remove brace. Some of the stuff in new construction you see , you just have to shake your head at.

keep up the good work, looks great

A lot of the time when the cove molding is applied under the tread, it is nailed ti the under side of the tread and it rubs against the riser. As the stair case is walked on it has some deflection and the cove moves with the tread not the riser....Squeek, squeek!!

The newel posts, railing and wrought iron balusters are installed. Customer is very happy. Kitchen cabinets and built-ins are next.

Got to make sure I schedule some vacation days before things get crazy busy.

beautiful work. Someone has a bottomless wallet.

Thanks...they have enough to put in the custom swimming pool as well, so it will be ready when the house is done.

wow, going to be sweet although the mosquito's will be bad in those woods though.

When applying the cove moulding, I glue the entire length of it on the surfaces that contact the riser and tread. I use 1 1/4" brads at an angle that penetrates the riser and extends into the tread. If no excess glue squeezes out then I haven't used enough.

I agree with this method ( I do the same) but a lot of guys dont take the time to sand the primer off the top edge of the riser so the glue will stick. They don't understand the way wood glue works....it doesn't stick to paint/primer.

Those stairs look great! I am starting to like metal balusters more and more.

These balusters were really easy to work with, only thing I had to be careful keeping the pattern right.

I drew this mantle and built-ins with autocad. Customer approved it with no changes. I'll start that after the kitchen install.

Spence ....they promised me ....no tv up there!

Testing ...first try at posting a .bmp image

Quality craftsmanship right there. You do nice work Rmarsh. I did a lot of highend stairs in the eighties but have not had the opportunity again. I did a stairway on Long island with similar balusters as the one you have pictured. They were not as ornate but they were steel and were blued by a gunsmith. They were a sight to see on a long semi circular stairway.

Vic

Thanks Vic... I started as an apprentice to an "old school" master carpenter right out of high school back in the early seventies. Wentworth graduate and ex-marine, he was brutal with his criticism of my lack of skill. I persevered and learned a lot from him.

Some guys will do a double take when I use a handsaw or block plane, they don't understand why I don't use a power tool for everything. We built many houses start to finish without a single nail gun being used.

I had posted a picture of the gunite pool going in at the job, here is a follow up on the progress.

I know what you mean with the hand tools. I used to get the funniest looks from guys when I would cut miters on open riser stringers with my hand saw. I am an old tool nut! all my hand tools are old, better steel than the junk made today, except some block planes I have. They are new and made by Lee Nielson. They stand up to my older ones and are a pleasure to use. The gentleman who taught me was a taskmaster as well. He would walk the entire stairway with his hand on the rail and find any little imperfection! He told me he could see better with his hands. He was right!!

That pool is awesome. I have been doing some stonework for family, just getting into it. Planning a small fish pond for my father. Don't know if we will get to it this summer. My body is revolting on me! Thank goodness for Kubota!!

Vic

They started building stonewalls around the pool today. They have a nice little excavator but there is still a lot of bull work.
These guys look very experienced at this. It is going to be really nice. I'll get some pics of it in a few days.

I think that pool is going to have a whirpool in the round upper part, with an outlet for water to cascade down into the lower pool.