Trailer Lights
 

Seems I'm replacing these basstards at least once a season
water causing corrosion inside making the bulb seat junk...sometimes I have to take the lens off, reseat the bulb after cleaning the contact area...
Had one yesterday where it only worked when I stepped on the brake, but not with the running lights on. Inside was fugly....I tried cleaning it up but nada....replaced the assembly, everything is good again.
I've been buying my lights (individually) at Wallyworld.....7$ per unit.

I know it's cheap, but am I really just buying junk and need to visit an actual trailer shop or WMarine to get some quality lights???

I'm almost at the point where I'm going to put the lights on pvcs well above the water line......not sure what the specifications for license plate location is though???


How do you guys fare with your trailer lights? Am I the only idiot changing these things every season???

Went submersible LED 4-5yrs ago and haven't regretted it!

...^ ...this.... the best thing ever to happen to boat trailer lights.

Ditto on that
Just replace the lens and mounting bolts to stainless ,, and heat shrink connectors,, good to go

I doubt that!!!! LOL

double
 

@S-B
Am I the only idiot changing these things every season???
I doubt that!!!! LOL

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:grins:

Change the len screws to stainless also.

LED are the way to go. Then I also added Pipelights to the Guide Posts.

I did exactly waht you suggest and mounted the lights on uprights about 2 feet above the "usual" position.... that way they are never submerged. seems to be helping, but I doubt its gonna be foolproof. been 1-2 years without any problems

I'm not sure how big your boat / trailer is, but what has worked for me for years now is to make a light bar that fits over my stern cleats and never touches the water.

Attachment 61291

I just slotted the PVC for the cleats, and bungee the whole thing to the cleats as well. Run the wire up over the boat. Works awesome.

Dave

Submersible LEDs like Buzz states as step 1. Then make sure to check all connections that will go in the saltwater and make them watertight with dielectric grease & heat wrap tubing.

Knock on wood, my first boat/trailer lasted 7 years and were still fine when I sold. New boat/trailer has been fine since 2012.

What about the 7 pin adapter (to-truck)?
Do you apply dielectric grease in there too? both ends?
I'm beginning to see some green on the pins

with the light assembly, what are you greasing?
bulb? contacts on bulb? assembly within bulb housing?

I'm definitely going to switch to LEDs once this next pair fails...but I'd still like to protect this pair for as long as possible.

**sorry if these are greenhorne questions, but the shoe fits me well. ;)

thanx in advance

Personally I would grease everything . and unplug your lights before dunking the trailer hot bulbs will pop if they get wet,

my 3 recommendation all already posted by others

1st just go LED
2nd mount led or Cheap ones on trailer guides (but alone the guides cost 100.00 bucks)

3rd the light bar also I have seen pole holder mounted lights un wrap them and put them in the rod holders works easier on small trailers just my 2 cents

Can you mount guide posts to your trailer and add the lights to them so they never get dunked?
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Not official, but almost I guess.....AAA Digest of Motor Laws

Both R.I. and MA. are pretty basic. No mention of height limitations as listed with other states??? Guessing it's ok.

I used a similar set up on my 13' dory...(pole-holder lights and plate) and never had a problem...did a lot of reading on dielectric vs. waterproof grease. Seems one is conductive and the other not.
I'm definitely going to follow experienced advice, just thought I'd toss that out there for further discussion.

Any thoughts?

I gob the dielectric grease everywhere;
- on battery cable connections
- trailer lights and pin connections
- fuse box in boat
- gps connections

X2. I put that chit on everything. Squirt it into butt connectors before splicing too. By the end of the season, the connections in the bilge are pretty gross looking but never corroded. quick wipe and scuff with a fine bronze wire brush and ready for new grease.

Harbor Freight ..LED trailer lights submisserble last 4-5 years if done properly.....:)

Bloo, Get rid of that green, then grease. Use alcohol if you don't have some electrical cleaner, spray it in there, rub the contacts with a qtip or old toothbrush if you can't get at them with a wire brush.

remove bulbs , scrape the a bit to clean them . contact areas of housing scrape a bit with something pointy . THEN , coat everything with grease , any type white lytham what ever . and i always un plug , prior to dipping in .

I know there's no such thing as a stupid question,,,,but you say unplug the lights before dunking the boat.

Water still gets into the housing doesn't it?
After backing in and pulling the boat out, all connections are still wet.....is there really that big of a difference by unplugging them and then plugging them in while still sopping wet?

Just curious?

There is a stupid answer.....use a 12 volt hair dryer after U launch.....just do not stand in the water....LOL....:)

[QUOTE=bloocrab;1075038]I know there's no such thing as a stupid question,,,,but you say unplug the lights before dunking the boat.

Water still gets into the housing doesn't it?
After backing in and pulling the boat out, all connections are still wet.....is there really that big of a difference by unplugging them and then plugging them in while still sopping wet?

Just curious?

I have been unplugging my trailer lights before backing down the ramp and no problems for three seasons now....i think it is to prevent water from coming in to contact with a hot bulb ....brake lights would be on at the bottom of the ramp. By the time you pull out at ye end of your day the water has drained from the housing.

Thats my theory anyway ...not sure i am correct though.

OK, I'll add that to the process....hopefully it helps.