Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Sandman
Van,
I know how to do this if you have not gotten it yet.
You need two things. An oxy torch and a slide hammer. I have done this on severl of these and I am now an expert. I smashed the s h i t out of my thumb trying to get one off before I spoke to an out drive mechanic who showed me how.
The trick is RAPID heat. You need to quickly heat the AL bracket with a oxy torch. (Try not to heat the pin directly) Do not use propane it is not fast enough. Don't melt the AL but get it hot quick then either pound it with a slide hammer or use a pin and hit it with a 3# sledge. Each time I did this it worked. You can clean it up and repaint afterwards. I have not had a time where I could not get one out and I had a couple that were really fused. (Grease the #^&#^&#^&#^& out of it when you put it back)
good luck and watch your fingers.
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Thanks, good info...
Some new findings.
I got a close look at it last night. When I use the tilt, I can see the snap ring moving ever so slightly. There isn't much movement on the lower pin but it did turn. That means its not seized on the brackets but in the body of the tilt/trim unit which is like 6" long. That's a lot of area if its corroded in place through the length.
On the upper, there is more rotation and it just the opposite, the pin does not rotate, so its seized on the engine bracket. I did get that pin to move a bit, but still would not come out.
I am going to try a few things that aren't too aggressive this weekend with heat and impact tools.. If it don't budge, I think am going to leave it until the end of the season. It still works, but make a nasty sound when I use it. So eventually it needs a-fixin'.
At my shop here at work we do have an oxy cutting set-up, massive presses (hydraulic and manual), a big air compressor and lots of sledge hammers !!!
So when the time comes..
I'll let you know.