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Originally Posted by Backbeach Jake
Geeze Eben, If you were under for 5-6 waves and they had a 10 second interval, then you were under for way too long.
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na.. they were only about 3 feet. i was up to my waist and the crest hit me in the chest... had the wave been a roller and not a cresting wave i woudl have simply jumped up and rode it out.