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Originally Posted by capesams
I've written this before....anything will stick to an oil base product,,,you can put laytex over oil,,,but you can't put oil on top of laytex,,,you can ,but it'll just peel off cause of the lack of bondage.
wil-bond will degloss just about any shiny surface and prep it for the next coat.
oil/urethane based sealers dry and can be sanded....linseed oil never truly dries..so if one tries to sand it ,,it just become's gooie, same with any laytex based product.
your liquid's from start to finish on anything MUST meld[bond] together with each other if it's to last at all....like auto paint has agents in it so the clearcoat will bond to it....you can put whatever clearcoat on you want,,but if it doesn't melt into the layer below it, all you've done is just put a skin gun on it....it's like nothing more than slipping a sock over your foot,only to slide off later.
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I agree with all that Capesams has said above. Perhaps the best thing is to use the linseed oil mixture first, followed by a shellac coat to seal and bond. This is what furniture makers do when they stain, or use oil, on bare wood, and then want to have a hard protective top coat such as lacquer or urathane. The top coats readily bond to the shellac coat. I don't really think of an oil coat as true sealer. A true sealer has to have some kind of resin content, either natural or synthetic, which "plasticizes" when it cures. As Capesams said linseed oil never fully cures. I would think that thinned spar varnish might be a good sealer. Shellac is a natural resin.