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Mark,
It's is not too hard drying epoxy by hand. I finished a rod that way just today. I've got motors, but this way gives outstanding results, and I had time.
First, use Gudebrod #811 color preserver to seal the threads. (best CP on the market) Put it on fairly heavy, so it soaks through the threads completely, and make sure to fill the "tunnel" area well. It looks thick, but don't worry, it dries thin and clear and perfect.
Let it dry overnight, if possible, then apply your epoxy.
The trick with the epoxy is to put it on heavy, again filling the "tunnel" area well, wait a few minutes, and then wick almost ALL of it back off. And I mean almost ALL of it. After 15 mins, check the wraps, and wick away any excess that may collect at the bottom. I like to "flame" and turn the epoxy at this point, making the the remaining epoxy very thin and even.
Turn until the epoxy cools down, and you are done, but check it every hour anyway. You may have to turn it 180 degrees once or twice if you didn't remove enough epoxy.
After it sets, 6 hours or so, apply another thin coat, just like the first. Do it the same way as the first, making sure you wick off all excess. This method will give you outstanding results every time.
A turner works well, I have several, but you will find that turner or not, this method will give you OUTSTANDING results. Far nicer than a single coat of Flex Coat.
You can use Flex Coat, Flex Coat Lite, LS Supreme or any rodmaking epoxy with this method, and you will find it gives you excellent results. (I like the Flex Coat lite a lot.)
If you don't have time in the office, get a turning motor from Allelectronics.com. Apply your finish, turn on the turner, and come back 6 hours later. Use Flex coat and you only need 1 coat.
Rodbuilding.org is a very good source of information. I've spent a lot of time there, and it will fast-forward your rodbuilding education.
Good luck.
TH
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