[eastendlu]

I pulled this .Looks like i'm going to pick some up to try Ace Hardware carries it!

I have finally tried a new method of finishing my painted RR equipment. I used to use Accu-paint finishes because I liked the way they layed-down a nice thin coat and really protected the decals and paint. Unfortunately, Accupaint is really becoming hard to find these days even though I live only 60 miles from where its made. So I needed a new system to finish my models. I did not like Floquil's finishes because of the solvent problems and the fact the Floquil does not like Water based paints (crazing problems). Testors Dullcoat and Glosscoat are also a problem because they have a nasty habit of yellowing with age. I also tried our own line of Microscale finishing products but I have never gotten used to using them without running into some problems. I am not knocking our stuff, in fact I do use them on armor models. Unfortunately, With Model RR equipment, it just doesn't work for me and the way I like to see my rolling stock to look once they are finished.

So I did a bit of research and experimenting to find a new finishing system that works for me. I finally found a system that works beautifully on my model RR locomotives and rolling stock.

Future Floor Wax.

You heard it correct: Future Floor Wax.

I found about Future Floor Wax by lurking in the rec.models.scale newsgroup and these guys swear by it. So I thought I would give it a try and I cannot believe how good it works!

I painted a Maine Central GP38-2 in the Harvest Gold∓Pine Tree Green paint scheme using the new Pollyscale water-based paints. The paints tend to dry a bit on the flat side and I need a glossy surface to decal on. (Be sure to correct any painting mistakes before you apply the first coat of Future and applying your decals).

Out comes the Future Floor Wax. Use it straight from the squeeze bottle; no need to thin it because the stuff is pretty thin already. Apply a thin coat to your model and then set aside to dry for about an hour. You will have a very glossy surface to which your decals will sit on perfectly. The Future will also protect you painted areas from damage by decal solvent or hard water.

When you are finished with decaling, you are ready for your final overcoat. Out comes the Future Floor Wax again! This time you add some Tamiya X-21 Flat base to the Future Floor Wax. How flat you want your finish to become depends on how much flat base you add to the Future. Experiment by adding a little and spraying a junk boxcar or something. Keep adding Flat Base to the Future until you get the finish you want. With a little experimenting, you can get anything from dead flat to a nice semi-gloss finish just by controlling the amount of flat base you add to the Future.

Once you apply the finish coat your decals and paint will be protected by a rock-hard acrylic finish just like your floors would be <grin>.

Future works better than Dullcoat because Future will not yellow with age. It works better than Floquil Crystalcoat because Future is self-leveling and lays-down a much thinner coat than Crystalcoat can ever do.

When you are finished spraying, clean your airbrush with a solution of White Ammonia and water (I mix a 50%-50% solution in a jar). If you make a big mistake with Future Floor Wax, it strips easily with Ammonia.

Of course, like with any solvents, be sure to wear a respirator and use a well ventillated paint booth when applying Future and cleaning with Ammonia.

That's it ! If anyone else has experimented with using Future or wants to give it a try, please let me know and I will provide any other tips or tricks I might have.
John R. Sheridan

I always wanted that " Future Floor Wax" method but I can't find it. In Canada is it sold under another name, where can I find some?

See if its sold under the product name "Johnson's Clear."

Future Floor Wax isn't really a wax. Its a hard clear acrylic finish. It cleans up with ammonia, so if you blow it through an airbrush, you need to use an ammonia cleaner such as Windex to clean out the airbrush.

If you're using Future for the first time, be aware that it has extraordinary leveling properties so you have to be careful that you don't put it on too heavy. if you do then it will start to react to gravity as its drying, and you'll notice that the coating is a lot thicker at the bottom than the top. You can brush it on without any worry that it will leave brush marks.

A neat trick you can do with Future is to not cover the whole model with Future before decaling, but just get the area where the decal will go a bit wet with Future. Then apply the decal directly on the wet Future. The Futuer will hold that decal real snug and it will dry very hard. After the decal has set, you can apply Micro Sol or Solvaset if it still looks like it needs it. Then when the decal is dry you can spray your final clear coat over the model to seal the decals completely
Richard

1. Does it need to be thinned to airbrush on and if yes what do you use to thin it with?

No, it's already pretty thin, it can be used straight. You can airbrush it straight from the bottle, or cut it 50-50 with isopropyl alcohol--I thin mine, and it works great, but it is quite thin as packaged. You get a gloosier surface if you apply it straight--the thinned stuff gives an almost semi-gloss finish, but you can apply several coats to build a high gloss. I find that thinned Future doesn't tend to puddle, while you really need to watch for a build up if you use it straight.

2. Can it be brushed on?

Yes. I often use an ordinary Q-Tip to apply it if I don't want to use the airbrush.

Yes. It's formulated to produce a no-fuss, no-streaks, high-gloss finish when applied with a mop, so there certainly won't be any problems with using a brush! It's self-levelling, the only possible problem is runs and drips if you apply too thick a coat. If you get bubbles, just breath gently on the model and the bubbles will pop.

You can even pour it on. Yep - poured is right! I made a shuttle for my brother (NASA worker) and when it came time to put on the Future, I decided to try a new tack. I held the model over a large plastic (Rubbermaid type) storage box, and literally squirted it on right from the container. I held it by the interior (engines and back bulkhead left off 'til last) and let it drain off the rear of the wings, touching the edge to a paper towel to get off the excess. It turned out to be the best, smoothest shine I've gotten from Future so far - better than airbrushing or brushing. Maybe it's just me, but it worked out very nicely. Decals went on and then a flat coat (Polly-scale flat clear - my favorite).

Absolutely. Future has great self-leveling properties. I have used a big soft standard 1/2" brush, and I have used one of those 1" wide foam rubber disposal trim-painting brushes with equal success.
Ken Durling

3. Can it be applied over acrylic and enamel paint?

Yes. You might get cracking with acrylics, depending on what acrylic paints you use, how long they've been allowed to dry, and how thick a coat of Future you apply. Just let the paint cure for a day before you apply it.

4. Do you apply it over clear canopies?

You can, and you can also dip the clear part into the Future, wick off the excess, and let it dry. Cover the part with a bowl to keep dust from settling on it.

I now dip my clear plastic parts in Future floor wax before any other work is done. With the future on as a protectant and sealer, I find it easy to remove paint from the plastic, especially with waterless hand cleaner.
Charlie

Also should I put a couple of coats on before I put the decals on , or decal first?

That depends on whether the base coat is flat or gloss. If flat, yes, Future it first. If gloss, go ahead and put your decals on straight and Future afterwards. That's only becuase decals do not settle well on the porous surface of a flat finish. Air gets trapped and causes silvering. A very bad thing. But decals will go great onto gloss paint.
Ken Durling

Some decals benefit from being placed directly into fresh Future(or clear acrylic), brush on some Future on the spot where the decal should go, place the decal and push out any air bubbles and overcoat with some more Future (or clear acrylic). This is useful for decals where the glue is to old, the decal to stiff or brittle or there's just too much decal-glue so it needs to be washed off first. The glue on some decals is so thick that it becomes slimy and may be visible when dry. In those cases I wash off all the glue and use Future as glue instead.