[scottw]

the reviews of the Createx topcoat that I've seen have not been very good, I use System3 WR-LPU topcoat but it's extremely expensive...in excess of 50/quart and 150/gallon as opposed to 10-14/quart for most clear waterbased finishes, I only use it because I need it for my busines and can justify stealing a little for plugs....I'm convinced that I've used most on the market trying to find something that will perform the way that I need it to and each has it's own quirks whether it is odor, amber color vs. water clear, recoat time, some will "orange peel" or bead when sprayed or brushed, some lay out much better than others..., the next best and affordable product that I've found is Ceramithane (810-28 clear gloss) (BTW gloss will always be a harder finish than satin or semi)which , like the S3 it has UV inhibitors and it is a cross-linking acrylic-urethane...you can get it from any ACE, they might have to order it but it is exceptional, it is a GRAHAM product...the ACE brand waterbased clear and they did for a time offer a hardener additive, it is very good for the money and very accessible...the System3 topcoat has a hardener additive that makes it so hard that you have to recoat within a window of time or not bother.....fine or super fine sanding pads are an easy way to rough up the scratch coat for to accept the epoxy of your choice...I like the System3 so far but you can't go right down to Michaels and get it like ETEX and use a 40% off coupon...I really wish that you could...

almost forgot, you will likely need to reduce any of these a little with water to get a good spray with an airbrush...keep a blowdryer close by and set it on low or no heat, use it to set the polyurethane up as you spray coats so that you won't have drips and runs, pooling....I mix poly into the paint during the entire painting process for a number of reasons and also use it to apply metallic pigment powders