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Numbskull summarizes it well.
I will add that if you are not using braid , stick to the modified COF build.
Even if you are using braid , unless the LC's are put on the rod properly for your specific rod , reel, braid , you will have a lousy performing rod.
The LC's were conceived to compete with the Interline Rods. That is the rods where the line runs inside the blank. They are designed with the long slope which minimizes the braid looping around and catching the guides when the line speed overruns the guides. This happens on long rods when a powerful caster is really laying into the lure , jig , etc. Most guys will ever see this happen on a shorter rod. Also , some of the builders who account for zillions of the rods built with LC guides , did it so the owner could use a spinner or conventional reel on those rods.
The first guide should definitely be mounted backwards. the second and third may also need to be mounted backwards but you need to test cast to determine this. You also need to locate that first LC correctly or the line will bunch up there.
I am happy to see people mentioning that they change to MN's or something similar rather than use the LC's close to the tip of a typical surf rod. I had a long , hard battle arguing that with people from all over the USA and the world in fact on the SOL rodboard. I think LC's near the tip make the rod lumpy in a stress test and therefore i don't like them there.
Now , if I had a big spooled VS or ZB reel , I would have to base my decision of whether to go Modified COF or Concept ( fuji or NGC not LC low rider) or Low Rider depending on a number of variables.
All Concept rods are not Low Riders. All Lowriders should utilies the thinking of "Concept " guide layouts but not excatly the same way as either the Fuji Concept or the NGC.
I am very dismayed when I read a whole thread about guide layouts and desires to use Low Riders , Concept (FUJI or NGC) and nobody at all in the whole thread mentions the word "Choker" but everybody talks about exact placements of the gathering guides. Its the biggest giveaway that people are simply repeating what they hear (all be it wrong) rather than giving advice based on really knowing what they are doing. Find out what gathering guide , reduction guides , choker guide and running guides mean if you are going to try to build a rod using any of the guide layout systems mentioned here. The few extra yards you may get with a perfectly done layout are just not worth the trouble you could possibly get yourself into by doing it wrong.
If you don't know exactly what all this means , then you are just guessing when you try to build a rod to optimize distance , etc by using any of the previously mentioned guide layouts.
Now if you don't want to talk to a builder and have him build the rod , I would strongly suggest that for a rod using a VS or ZB reel you try to cookbook an NGC rod build using the MN guides and stay away from the Low Riders.
Anyway , I could go on for hours about this stuff but I'll summarize by saying you'll get your best distance increase by selecting the correct blank and locating the reel seat so that you can maiximize your own casting ability. If you are a good caster , a longer rod is better but if you can't handle the length , longer is worse and some fishing spots, etc can make longer impractical. Now if you can handle the rod and the reel seat is located so that you can maximize your own casting ability , then you want to buy the highest quality blanks made to maximize casting distance. Some rod blanks like Century and Ziplex , etc are just going to have more distance potential than a GSB Lami. After you maximize all this , then practice like hell. Then , start worrying about getting into specific guide layouts that may get you 5 more yards on a cast.
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