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Old 02-05-2012, 12:03 PM   #22
Rowhunter
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin
Posts: 68
Happy 2012!
Hey guy's, sounds like everyone is getting ready, and getting shop's sorted out, I'm in the same boat. I've started a little later this year due to a little side project. A co-worker had a butchered 1955 Les Paul Jr that needed some love. A previous owner had cut the center portion out and replaced it with Luan plywood to hide previous hacking. I cut that out, replaced it with Mahogany, epoxied it in place, added binding, filled, painted with 1955 Lincoln turquoise and clear coated the entire piece. I'd never have touched it with normal wear, but she was done.
Woody, I do know a few things about gliders, and you are right, is is all about shape, width and balance. A couple things I've found that work are, a longer shape balances much better with weight added both to the front and rear of the bait. Do that balancing act with a level fall and a sink rate of around 1 foot per second and you've got a winner. With a shorter, taller profile I've found that a centered ballast with the same sink rate works very well. With both shapes however, wider is better like 7/8 to 1" for a 6 to 10" profile. Maple is my choice of wood for gliders, it seems to work out best without a ton of weight needed to dance. Remember that when you do your sink rate test to have hooks on and guesstimate topcoat weight. You can change hook size after completion to fine tune. Line tie attachment will also come into play, generally keep it centered. Here are a couple examples from last year.

Douglas
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