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Old 07-22-2003, 06:17 AM   #11
Billy 40
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Staten Island, NY
Posts: 169
Chum - That metal lathe is THE ticket.

When you look at a DPS seat, the middle section between teh hoods, that is what you cut out. Take a strip of masking tape, wrap it a couple of times around the seat where you want to cut it - this gives you a straight edge to cut along. Cut with a fine tooth saw.

After cutting I take out my 20 grit sanding disk and CAREFULLY square the edges were I made the cuts. USually don't have to do too much, and I'm extremely careful.

When you turn the insert, make the exposed portion the same length as teh center piece you cut out, and make teh OD teh same as the OD of teh fixed hood. Since I do it by hand on a regular lathe, I will leave it a little thicker and do my final sanding with 400-600 grit after it's glued up and on teh rod already (cork)

What Chris is referring to with teh thicknes (and correct me if I'm wrong here) of the insert being too thin - is the portion which will be under the fixed hood and teh threaded portion of the seat. When you buy an insert from Struble or REC, it comes with a turned down section which goes under the ends of teh seat. I think this is so the middle portion of teh seat butts up perfectly with the end of teh seat, but I'm not sure.
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