Thanks again for the insight. It sure lessened my apprehension of starting this project.
Got the rod stripped down and sanded clean in less than an hour.
>>
guides only<<
Definitely not as bad as I thought. I first tried to slice along the guide cutting only into the epoxy and not the blank (with the razor standing upright). I wasn't liking it. I couldn't tell how deep I was cutting, not to mention...it was hard as nails. This rod is 20+yrs old.
What worked for
me, were NEW sharp blades and carefully applied elbow grease. I used the razor blade like a chisel. I started on the backside of the rod, middle of the guide and worked my way out. I laid the blade almost flat, just enough to get into the epoxy and slowly pushed it in. I continued to chisel away until I found my depth. Once I was comfortable with the depth, I adjusted the angle on the blade so as not to cut into the blank. The blade doesn't cut into the blank that easy so it wasn't difficult to differentiate the epoxy from the blank. I cleared a straight path the length of the guide and epoxy. I found it easier to widen the "path" once created. This allowed for an easier removal of the guide (making it easier to
peel the material off).
I was then able to peel the guide and epoxy from the blank. Granted it wasn't a clean peel, as there was residual epoxy left behind, but that was easily cleaned after the guide and bulk of epoxy was removed. Laying the blade almost completely flat against the blank made quick work of clearing any remaining epoxy. The bevel on the razor blade itself was a good guide in keeping the sharp edge from doing any damage to the blank. Most of the remaining residual epoxy is the actual taper of epoxy to blank, where there is no thread.
Couple of things...once I got the blade digging good, it was best to continue to push hard and steady without stopping. This allowed me to make more progress as opposed to short increments. Once the blade gets dull, GET A NEW BLADE. World of a difference. One other thing, it was helpful to use my other fingers to grip the guide itself (underneath, as shown in picture), allowing me to use it as leverage when pushing the blade forward.
I opted not to reheat the epoxy. I was thinking that it would definitely get very messy in all aspects of removal (not knocking it, just didn't try it).
Not the safest method I'm sure, but it worked for me and I would definitely go this route again if I had to.
None of this possible without the input of others.
Anyone know the specs on a Lamiglas BSB 36 GM? I can't find it on their site...