Not that I've been a lot of places, but when we went to JF in 2004 it was the best time I've ever had. We stayed on North Rampart, right next to Congo Square/Louis Armstrong Park. The first night we were there, we made the two minute walk to Memorial Auditorium in the park and saw Santana put on a great general admission show where there was no problem standing as close as you wanted. One night we walked across the street to The Funky Butt to see Big Sam's Funky Nation, and it was the highlight of a great trip. Sam owned the place at the time. The band took the stage at 1:00 AM and absolutely tore the place up until the wee hours. Bolstered by Funky Butt Juice, EVERYBODY danced, mere feet from the band in this cozy little space. The crowd was awesome. Even the whitest guys could "dance like nobody's watching" with nothing but laughter and encouragement from the locals, they really made you feel welcome. Sadly, Sam couldn't afford some needed repairs to keep the place open. He was working on moving to another location when Katrina came along and ruined everything. The last great music venue in that area, Donna's, closed last spring leaving only a few gay bars with a lively drag scene in that area. You would still be welcome there and have a good time if you wanted to go, but the music has pretty much ended along that once great street that forms the border between the Quarter and the Treme neighborhood. Over the years the push by the tourism industry to steer everyone towards the FQ, combined with the lack of stronger representation of the poorer folk on the outskirts (ironically the home of the local musicians and a lot of the help that makes NOLA what it is) has left that area pretty dilapidated. It's definitely still worth checking out, like RIJIMMY said, for the history, but the tourism folks will tell you to stay away after dark. As you move down closer to Bourbon Street, you see more of a Bohemian type of area, with lots of cool little cafes and lots of businesses displaying rainbow flags. Some great food and we were always treated to excellent service. Then you get to Bourbon, and as you head towards Canal it becomes the New Orleans that you think of when you see Girls gone wild or Mardi Gras coverage on TV. Open containers, strip joints, people partying on the balconies, etc. Great party. When you get to Canal street it turns into a regular big city with the big hotels and casinos. If you don't have a car this is where you will catch the buses to the festival grounds. Very well organized and easy peasy. If you are staying anywhere close to the Quarter you don't need a car. I wouldn't even want to make the drive to the grounds, because you go through some REALLY bad looking areas on the way, and that was before the storm. Can't imagine what it is like now. Our first day at the festival a longtime and very well known and liked festival goer was stabbed to death not far outside the gates to the grounds. Once inside though, it's fine, and the buses take you right inside.
Lots of restaurants to check out in the Quarter with great local cuisine. I remember one place where they put newspaper down on your table and just dump a huge pile of crawfish on it.
Like your friend said, definitely try to find all the bands scheduled at the clubs at night. With all those artists in town there should be a few gems of small venue shows.
As far as the music at the festival, the amount of music is ridiculous. As you'll see, it's impossible to see everybody you want, especially the big acts. The good thing is the music in the smaller tents is equally great and more intimate, especially if your music taste is wide ranging like mine. I like almost everything. The big names you know already--- you can decide who you want to see and who you want to skip. If I was going, I would do my best to catch Trombone Shorty, Big Sam's Funky Nation, Grace Potter and the Nocturnals, Sharon Jones and the Dap Kings, Sonny Landreth, Rebirth Brass Band, Bonerama, Levon Helm w/Mavis Staples, Bonnie Raitt, Dr. John.... really, to go on with such a list is pointless. There's just so much. The food at the venue is pretty good too, with some interesting stuff-- alligator pie, crawfish cakes, etc.
The thing that stuck with me as being one of the best aspects of the trip is the people. Very laid back and friendly. A lot of the employees at the Hotels and such seem like they are moving in slow motion sometimes, but they are so nice and helpful you really don't mind. You just slow yourself down as well, which is kind of nice. Kinda like being on "Island time." The restaurants and shops with the rainbow flags are a different story. They were friendly AND quick, excellent service, at least at the ones I went to.
I wish I was going, as I do every year when I see the music lineup, but we only can afford one major travel event a year, and with the flight and hotel prices during jazzfest, even a long weekend counts as a major travel event on our budget.
Have a blast. I'm very jealous.
