[ReelinRod]

Originally Posted by zimmy

I found absolutely no benefit going with a 25 or even a 30 gathering guide with a reel like a 706 and it actually negatively impacted the performance of the rod. Others swear buy starting with the small gathering guide, however, I have never found anyone who builds like that who checks for line slap; I sould not got rid of line slap with a 30.

Using such a large diameter reel starts you off with a huge handicap in controlling the line thrown off by it. This is a situation where the coils directly determine the first guide's distance from the reel.

If one were to put a 706 on a rod with just a tip-top and cast it would there be line slap? Perhaps in the first few coils coming off the reel depending on the smoothness of the release (and at the very end because of the shortness of the spool) but the coils would settle and form a predictable ever deceasing sized cone never touching the rod.

When you put a smaller guide in the same spot as the bigger guide you are eliminating you can create slap. Having line coils striking it at a hard angle creates an effect where the line, instead of being controlled by the guide is swept out into a coil larger than the line was before it hit the guide. Under high velocity this line trying to funnel itself into the guide will blow-by the guide and you get a guide wrap.

Anybody can try this; tape the reel on the opposite side of the reel seat and just run the line through the tip and carefully give it some moderate (not full power) casts and watch the line. Pick a spot where the line coils are about 45 - 50mm in diameter and tape a 40mm guide there (for a smaller diameter reel pick a spot with coils 35 - 40mm and tape a 30mm there). Static test for the rest. Give it some casts . . .

You will end up with a much different layout than what is on the other side of the rod, probably one fewer guide and much smoother and less problematic line flow.

Originally Posted by SAUERKRAUT

For practical fishing, I hate shockers EVERY CAST; however, they save fish for me when I'm in the boulders. I actually have some good photos and a couple of dramatic souvenir shock leaders I save-- frayed, kinked and near severed and destroyed along their entire lenghs of 12 to 20 feet...but I got the fish unwrapped from a right angle turn from around some obstruction and landed. The extra heavy "shocker" braid is something I will try; but I don't envision braid of any pound test as good as mono for this type of abrasion abuse.

I agree there are reasons to use a mono leader and I am not advocating the use of lowriders only, just using them as an example that people shouldn't be hesitant to buck tradition and go with smaller guides. Beginning with a 40 or 30 and ending with 12's is always better than starting with a 50 or more . . . The guides just need to be put in in the right spots. Try my exercise above.

Originally Posted by numbskull

IF you can get the guides positioned right and avoid line slap (not a small IF) the lowrider supposedly gives you the best distance.......but leaves a long section of unsupported blank (and sharp line angle under load) between the reel and first guide. Whether that matters or not, I don't know. Reelin Rod can probably tell you.

I'm not a big worrier about the unsupported area; I avoid high sticking like the plague and I just don't think that normal fishing conditions overstress the rod.

The biggest bass I have caught on the rod pictured above was 36lbs but it has red drum to 47 inches on it. The rod is under greatest stress during the cast and let's just say I put it through hell in that regard.

Here I am bombing out a baseball to my son with the 1507 (great fly practice for him ):