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Boat Fishing & Boating A new forum at Striped-Bass.com for those fishing from boats and for boating in general |
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10-15-2006, 07:36 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: marshfield
Posts: 3,620
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off season boat maintenence?
hi everyone. i could use a little help w/ recomended maint. the boat is 2 yrs old, 500 hrs on a 115 merc. last year all i did was oil, plugs - basic stuff. it runs great but is it time for a service visit? or if it ain't broke don't fix it? i'm going to swap out the batts and the b-pump. what else am i missing? also - full gas tank or empty?
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10-15-2006, 07:48 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Marshfield, MA
Posts: 1,748
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Niko,
Good batteries should last you more than 2 years, more like 3-5. You can usually see the battery bulging when the plates start failing, then it is a no brainer. You can give them a load test. If they remained trickle charged thru the winter they should be fine.
Lots of literature out about the new gas....the latest theory is near MT tanks for the winter with E10 gas, some kind of stailizer wouldn't be bad either for the small amount of gas remaining. I have read that a product called Startron from Starbrite is good for the water/gas interface which is more of a problem no a days.
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Jon, 24' Nauset-Green Topsides, Beamie, North River. Channel 68/69. MSBA, NIBA
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10-15-2006, 08:28 AM
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#3
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Uncle Remus
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lakeville Ma.
Posts: 14,773
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Water pump and thermostat
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"A beach is a place where a man can feel he's the only soul in the world that's real"
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10-18-2006, 07:29 AM
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#4
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zoom
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Quincy
Posts: 4,145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niko
if it ain't broke don't fix it?
also - full gas tank or empty?
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My ficht rude is an 01' I've had since 00' never done the thermostats or water pump. I don't know the hours, but I still may not do those changes next year.
As for the gas. I've been talking to many and reading alot (hull truth has knowledgable members). So far it seems get it as empty as possible and add an additive for E10 gas. Not sure which one yet.
AND if possible run the gas out of the engine (fuel rails, carbs whatever)
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~..~..~.. ><((((º>
Things done at the last possible minute are done with the greatest possible information. Procrastination is, therefore, the most efficient means of doing things.
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10-18-2006, 01:58 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: marshfield
Posts: 3,620
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thanks for the input gents, paul
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10-30-2006, 06:38 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: on land and sea
Posts: 34
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water pump every 2 years (cheep insurance)
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10-30-2006, 06:42 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: on land and sea
Posts: 34
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i have heard to keep gass in the carbs to keep the varnish down
I just run fuel stabilizer on the last run to get it through the system
Or run it on the trailer (with ear muffs)
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10-31-2006, 08:10 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Lincoln, RI
Posts: 621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niko
i'm going to swap out the batts and the b-pump.
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Unless you've regularly run down the batteries and not topped them off, they should last a few more years.
Re: bilge pump - I'd add a second pump instead of swapping one out. They usually last a long time, but then again I've had them fail in a year too (rare).
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Best regards,
Roger
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10-31-2006, 06:37 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,649
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What goes on bilge pumps is the float switch. I have had brand new ones out of the box not work. If they stick, scrap it, they are not worth the time to #^^^^& around with them.
I would change the impeller for the waterpump. I have this done *every* season...It is just rubber, and the heat, salt and friction takes it toll on it. While you are at it change the thermostat. (When these things go it is generally not at good time...why cheap out? Don't wait for it to crap out.)
Of course all oil, gearcase and fuel/oil filters need to be changed as well. I chage all that stuff every 100 hours.
I find those cheap live bait pumps crap out often...when you replace them, get a good one and it will last much longerand run better.
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10-31-2006, 08:02 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,418
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Personally I would go to your local merc dealer and buy the manual for that engine if you don't already have it. i would review the recommended maint. and combine those instructions with the advice you get here to make your own decisions. You should be familiar with your engines manual anyway. If you go out any distance I recommend you keep the manual on your boat along with an assortment of tools capable of making basic repairs/adjustments. Hopefully you never need them. Good luck.
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11-01-2006, 07:16 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Buzzards Bay/Onset, MA
Posts: 180
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Good advice by everyone, water pumps every two years is cheap insurance. Change your lower unit gear oil and have the lower unit pressure tested to see if the seals are good, winter is the best time to have work done on your lower unit.
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11-03-2006, 03:34 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: marshfield
Posts: 3,620
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thanks for all the help everyone
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11-21-2006, 05:58 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Cranberry Coast Gateway 2 Cape Cod
Posts: 4,143
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Interstate Batt's (blemish) marine 25$ a pop there new and IMHO a bargian all sizes available , if you see an Interstate truck stop and ask the driver They might swing you a deal dosen't hurt to ask.
I don't run an out board but have had one Given to Jr.Link with boat attached and have done all maint. recomended in manual.
on my boat 3/4 tank gas Star*Tron enzyme gas treatment per spec's and E ZORB per spec's gas should be fresh with no phase seperation top off next spring and add star tron all season I run a stock MERC gas filter and change 2X a season no problems.
LINK SR 
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" Happy as a clam at high tide "
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11-22-2006, 01:47 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Rochester, NH
Posts: 202
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Each end of year I service the 115 Yamaha outboard myself. 1/4 or less gas in tank, double recommended stabilizer. Drain oil, new filter, new oil. Lower unit gear drained, new thick stuff. Pull plug connectors and put a little oil in cylinders. Turn engine over without plugs attached to move the oil around. Batteries in basement and trickle charge every 2 months. Full tank in spring and go fishing.
Every 2nd year to dealer for check over and new filters. Ethanol can clean your tank and tubes and put debris in filters. New grease for fittings and steering etc.
Start it up in April and go fishing.
NewBoater
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The Ole Sarge
RC&SU (Rude Crude & Socially Unacceptable)
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway
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