Vega Chip Control Box

[Eric Roach]

• Made from 5/8" Melamine and 1/4" Lexan.
• Adjustable for blanks from 6.25" to 11.25".
• The chips are nearly perfectly contained (there were literally just a couple on the floor after I turned this piece).

I was using a similar contraption made from a Sterilite container but I wanted to build something adjustable with minimum open space near the cutting head.

[Muskyslayer96]

ER

Beautiful job there...may be sending a PM on details looks like something i could really use.

Well done

MS

[GattaFish]

Nice stuff Eric..... Maybe show us a few new pics of the shop too....

Are you headed to block again this year?
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[roym]

Eric,

Shop looks incredible! The chip control box is something that would save most of us hours of sweeping and vacuuming each time we turn. Would it be possible for you to let us know how you made it?

Thanks
roym

[pbadad]

Nice job Eric. Details on the project would be great.

[Eric Roach]

Thanks guys. I'll try to get down there after work tonight to get some more detailed pics. I'll post the dimensions of the pieces as well as what I learned by trial & error of assembly.
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[GattaFish]

Am I going to see you on Block again this year...?

Tom
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[jlnel]

Great job, i just got the vega and would love to add this, the shop looks like a museum... Very clean
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[Rockfish9]

very simular to the one I use.... install a floor sweep under the lathe and the job gets even eaiser...

[Eric Roach]

Originally Posted by GattaFish

Am I going to see you on Block again this year...?

Tom
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Hey Tom: I'll PM you.

[Eric Roach]

The next couple of posts will contain the dimensions of the pieces of the box, but here's some general info:

General

• The box is held with a couple of bolts through the brackets that fix the Vega to the lathe bed, but I didn't design this box with ease of removal in mind -- I have a seperate lathe for hand tools.
• I adjusted the Vega before I built the box; I wanted to make sure it would cut the the thickest piece possible. I used a caliper to ensure it cut the same diameter across the full travel of the carriage. Once all was squared, I locked it down and built the box around this permanent set-up of the Vega.

Materials

• I used Melamine on the back and base of the box becase I needed the thickness: I had to use a Forstner on the underside of the bottom piece to compensate for the bolt heads securing the Vega to the lathe bed; the back piece needed to be thick to hold the 4" hose flange.
• I used 1/4" Lexan for the rest of the box. I'm not sure I'd use Lexan again, it isn't completely electrically inert -- it seems to attract wood dust. Not sure how other clear plasics would compare.

Tools

• I did almost all my cutting on my bandsaw using a fence. If cutting with a table saw you'll want a laminate blade.
• I had to buy a 4" hole saw for the hole flange.
• The Lexan was bonded using Weld-On 16 Acrylic Cement.

[Eric Roach]

• The 4" hose flange was made by cutting a PVC-to-hose fitting on the bandsaw. It fight so tightly into the opening there wan't any need for adhesive or hardware.
• I added the Lexan bottom to ensure the front piece was securely fixed.
• Keep in mind that the dimesions might vary for you -- it's best to measure your pieces around your particular Vega set-up rather than following these exactly.

[Eric Roach]

• In order to prevent the suction from drawing in the adjustable "wing" I used a magnet on the side piece, which supports the wing on the lathe bed. The magnet faces the base of the the tail stock, so as I slide it back and forth the wing slides with it.
• The bottom doesn't sit directly on the bottom of the main box, I used a spacer to let air pass underneath.

[Eric Roach]

• Pretty basic. I didn't bother hinging it to the main box as it's easier for me to just remove it and hang it from the pegboard.
• The lip of the lid and the design of the front pieces allows an open space just big enough for the cutting neck to pass back and forth.

[Eric Roach]

Other Thoughts

• Weld-On is serious stuff, use in a well-ventilated space.
• If you've never drilled Lexan before, I recommend you do so only in a drill press. Go slow, let the bit cool as you go or you'll melt the plastic. Use a piece of Lexan under the piece you're drilling instead of wood -- when you break though with the bit, wood chips and dust can become fused in your piece; Lexan won't, it can be chipped off with your fingernail.
• Although 1/4 Lexan is quite strong, you'll still want to wear your face shield for protection.

If anyone wants to see more pictures, please let me know.

Good luck, and please post your improvements.

Eric

[new jack]

Awesome. Thank you for sharing.
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[Muskyslayer96]

Eric,

really cool...thanks for taking the time to lay it out!!

MS

[lazzyone]

Thank you!!

[Chunkah]

Awesome idea...thanks for sharing.
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