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Plug Building - Got Wood? Got Plug?

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Old 03-01-2004, 07:06 PM   #1
Backbeach Jake
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Species of wood

What species of wood have you found usable? I've been using Port Orford cedar, and Maple. Love the Maple! Have been offered some cherry. Just wondering....
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Old 03-01-2004, 07:24 PM   #2
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I use mostly AYC and maple. But have tried pooplar, purpleheart, yellowheart, birch, baswood, mahogany, black walnut, red cedar, white cedar, sugar pine and redwood.
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Old 03-01-2004, 07:58 PM   #3
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Question if it's not too much to arsk...

NG... where did you get the basswood?

BBJ, whats your source for the maple?
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Old 03-01-2004, 08:13 PM   #4
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Got the basswood from a friend who lives down your way.
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Old 03-01-2004, 08:23 PM   #5
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Thanks NG.... reason I asked, is, when I was yapping with Bob Andrews (Capn' Andy Lures), the other day, he told me that all he ever used for plugs was basswood, but had to have it milled down south, special order...

And maple, I can get, but got to special order, or scrounge furniture pile at dump.. when the gateman ain't lookin'
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Old 03-01-2004, 08:48 PM   #6
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There is also a place about a mile down the street from me that sells basswood called Downes and Reader . These guys have some awesome wood species in stock
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Old 03-01-2004, 09:25 PM   #7
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Karl, I used to get my maple from Bingham's lumber in Brookline, NH just over the border from me on Rt 13. Made my counter tops of it 20 years ago and it's still pissa! Went there last week and got a blank stare. Started rummageing around in the shed and lo and behold a piece of 6/4 sugar maple hit me on the head, could tell it was sugar maple cus the tap hole was still there. Been cranking needles.
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Old 03-01-2004, 09:38 PM   #8
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Thanks for the answers!
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Old 03-02-2004, 08:46 AM   #9
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Just started a few with cherry. Looks like it will be good for poppers, needles and the like. I don't think it is bouyant enough for swimmers, but it does make a decent darter..........

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Old 03-02-2004, 09:07 AM   #10
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Arrow then the perfect

wood has what characteristics? turnability ,tight grain
bouyancy, density(ie weight)....what? I know each has its own properties
but i want to try manzanita from california and some other strange and rarely used woods like teakwood for example.
and why is OAK never mentioned?
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:55 AM   #11
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Re: then the perfect

Quote:
Originally posted by Raven
wood has what characteristics? turnability ,tight grain
bouyancy, density(ie weight)....what? I know each has its own properties
but i want to try manzanita from california and some other strange and rarely used woods like teakwood for example.
and why is OAK never mentioned?
there is no one wood that is good for everything in my experience. Don't know if that's what you're alluding to or not. Teak is very expensive, very hard (dulls tools fast I have turned a couple things from teak, it is open grained as well so you don't get a flat surface even after sanding. Teak is very oily so there can be trouble with paint adhesion. It finishes similar to other tropical hardwoods like Indonesian mahogany and spanish cedar although I find the 2 latter much easier to work with. Oak is good as long as it is white oak, must be sealed, I find it best for poppers.
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Old 03-02-2004, 07:20 PM   #12
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I'm a newby to crafted plugs .I've turned some in red cedar but have lots of d. fir from work. I've turned a few and they are not so bad ,D fir is a lot harder than red cedar or ayc ,which I'm about to get a load of I'm replacing it all with Iepea(?) .Does it make a difference?
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Old 03-02-2004, 07:28 PM   #13
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does what make a difference?

D.fir is fine for turning plugs, but you may find with sanding that the harder grain parts are going to remain raised as the softer stuff sands away and it could cause an uneven rolling surface. But that can happen to lots of woods.
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:26 PM   #14
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they seem to sand about the same . d fir is less likely to dent on my rocky beaches
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Old 03-03-2004, 08:12 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by tom crowley
I'm a newby to crafted plugs .I've turned some in red cedar but have lots of d. fir from work. I've turned a few and they are not so bad ,D fir is a lot harder than red cedar or ayc ,which I'm about to get a load of I'm replacing it all with Iepea(?) .Does it make a difference?
tom
If you mean "ipe" (pronounced eepay) then you better be ready to sharpen your tools frequently. That is an extremely hard wood and it's very heavy. It's also endangered I believe. Slip is right about the D. Fir, growth rings stay raised on most samples I've turned. But I have had a couple pieces that turned fine, ( heartwood maybe). I have used it without sealing it and it seems to hold up ok, no splitting.
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Old 03-03-2004, 08:34 AM   #16
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i'm putting the ipe in, taking out the ayc. Its one of the few woods our township allows when building near salt water .most of the d fir i have been using is tight grained. nothing with1/2 in growth rings.
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Old 03-03-2004, 09:48 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by tom crowley
i'm putting the ipe in, taking out the ayc. Its one of the few woods our township allows when building near salt water .most of the d fir i have been using is tight grained. nothing with1/2 in growth rings.
tom
You're getting rid of AYC?? Send all unwanted AYC to me
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Old 03-03-2004, 10:08 AM   #18
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I use a lot of EUCALYPTUS wood it turns great, nice tight grain. good weight. .

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Old 03-03-2004, 10:21 AM   #19
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i'm removing all the ayc to my shop
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Old 03-03-2004, 05:53 PM   #20
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Is anyone turning with cypress? I've had a couple people mention it to me, but haven't been able to find any.

RI Poppers...do you have to seal the eucalyptus?
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Old 03-03-2004, 06:18 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by Young Salt
Is anyone turning with cypress? I've had a couple people mention it to me, but haven't been able to find any.

RI Poppers...do you have to seal the eucalyptus?
YS, I have a very small supply of cypress and it is very nice. Great decay resistance and turns very well, about the same density as d. fir I believe. Difficult to find , at least in my area. what I have found is quite expensive.
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Old 03-03-2004, 07:03 PM   #22
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sealing the eucolyptus isn't necessary. It holds the primer and paint great.

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