questchun

[scottwentfishin]

I have never used a rotary burr or file, witch one should I use on carving out my poppers face, is the burr for metal, and the file for wood, and i am pretty sure i need a single and not a double cut. my popper face is 1 1/4 wide should i use a 3/4 ball or 1 ball. i am thinkin a 3/4 and just work it around a little. does anybody no a store where they sell the larger sizes, everywhere i tried has only small drem. balls. just wana check before i order online. rather not wait for order online, it would hold up my assem. line!
thanks scott

[Charleston]

I use the 3/4 and 1 inch diameter "High Speed Rotary Files" for every popper I make. If the face is larger I work the 1" ball around.
The only place I have been able to find these tools is Discount-Tools dot com. If you pay for the premium shipping you will have them in 2 days. The 1" File is about $22
Tip, do not use a metal brush to clean the files. I use a tooth brush or my air hose. Keep'em sharp

[EricW]

Originally Posted by Charleston

I use the 3/4 and 1 inch diameter "High Speed Rotary Files" for every popper I make. If the face is larger I work the 1" ball around.
The only place I have been able to find these tools is Discount-Tools dot com. If you pay for the premium shipping you will have them in 2 days. The 1" File is about $22
Tip, do not use a metal brush to clean the files. I use a tooth brush or my air hose. Keep'em sharp

Do you have High speed steel or carbide? I have some of each and I find that the high speed steel cut wood better. They both cut, but the HSS seems to do it quicker. I am waiting to see which last longer. I am gussing the carbide since it is harder.

Scott: when/if you get one or more of these, make sure you wear good work gloves and use a jig or clamp etc on the drill press. These are very sharp and will do a number on your hands/fingers. Some have also said that they use a bigger file than thier popper head. that is if you want to get that shallow type of popper mouth. I use a 3/4 alot that is just smaller than the outside diam of plug. I move the plug mouth around a bit and get a real nice shape.

[Charleston]

I put the rotary file in the drill chuck in my lathe. I run it slow and it cuts very well. It leaves a very smooth finish.
There is really no ned for carbide for wood working. The HSS will do a fine job at a fraction of the cost.

Also! Some may not agree but I came up through the trade and I know from experience. " It is not a good idea to be wearing gloves around machine spindles. Specialy drill presses.

[EricW]

I actually got my carbide ones about for about half of what I paid for the HSS from a tool dealer on the internet. I have since found a place for the hss so I may get some of those.

I know the gloves around power tools can be a hazzard. I have found some gloves from craftsman called something like mechanics gloves that are meant to fit tight and conform to your hand and have velcro around the wrist They give you good ability hold small parts etc. They really work well in the garage.

[ProfessorM]

No gloves please. I'd rather cut my hand than rip my finger off or break my wrist. Seen both happen. I prefer the stitches. P.
BTW Bill Do you just press the plug into the burr, in the lathe chuck, by hand or do you support the tail end with the tailstock and push in with the crank? Just curious. Paul

[scottwentfishin]

thanks for the info guys
really appreciate the tips

[Charleston]

Originally Posted by Professor Moriarty

No gloves please. I'd rather cut my hand than rip my finger off or break my wrist. Seen both happen. I prefer the stitches. P.
BTW Bill Do you just press the plug into the burr, in the lathe chuck, by hand or do you support the tail end with the tailstock and push in with the crank? Just curious. Paul

Paul; I first drill a shallow hole with a forstner bit. about 3/8" deep if it's a 1" rotary file. Then I push the face of the popper onto the tool by hand. I think my spindle speed is approx. 550 RPM. Once I have come close to my depth I beging to work the tool towards the outter edge. watching the blank as I turn it. When I'm done the concentricity is right on!
Here is a tip. Most times I will start the cup to get the tool working. Then I walk over to my disc sander ( about 5 feet away) and sand the face angle. Now I have the face angle with the radius already centered. Now I go back the the rotary file and finish the cup.
To be honest I do whatever feels right at the time because I am not a woodworker. I'm a machinist!!!!!

[ProfessorM]

Thanks Bill.