Floor in Boat - Striper Talk Striped Bass Fishing, Surfcasting, Boating

ProfessorM · 01-21-2007, 01:48 PM

I am going to replace the floor in my 14' tin boat this year and was wondering on any advise. I have done it a few times in the last 20 years but I just usually use plywood and paint it. Last's ok but has to be done every year. I was thinking of coating the floor with epoxy or something to make it last longer. Should I use Marine grade stuff or is regular 1/2" ok. I would need 2 sheets because of the length. I imagine it is pricey. Anyway any help would be appreciated. Paul

Slipknot · 01-21-2007, 02:36 PM

Marine plywood is supposed to not have any voids and it has the waterproof glue between veneers. The difference in price will determine how often you want to keep replacing it.
Yes you could cut the parts then epoxy them and do like capesams and paint with california porch paint, however, fir ply will check and it's best to also cover the wood with a skin of 6 or 9 ounce cloth also when epoxying. three coats of epoxy each side for waterproofing.
it will last a long time if you do it right the first time.

here is a place that has the marine ply alot cheaper than boulter plywood. http://www.mainecoastlumber.com/
and they have Meranti which you don't have to use the fiberglass cloth since that wood won't check like fir does.

nightfighter · 01-21-2007, 05:55 PM

Nomex baby!

http://www.dupont.com/nomex/core.html

MTC · 01-21-2007, 09:35 PM

How thin and what colors can you get the Nomex

RIROCKHOUND · 01-21-2007, 10:54 PM

Open bilge, spray the whole thing with Rhino lining! we have and old tin boat I'd love to turn into a project...

nightfighter · 01-23-2007, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTC

How thin and what colors can you get the Nomex

http://www.plascore.com/honeycomb/aramid.asp

fishermanjim · 01-25-2007, 07:20 PM

just watch the weight of the plywood,,, i did a 16 starcraft years ago the boat was a tank in the water after the new floor,,, my 40 evenrude had a hard time pushing it

macojoe · 01-29-2007, 11:15 PM

If you must and you never want to do it again I would go with Seaboard (same as Starboard but much cheaper) they have lots of color and different thickness, they even came out with a textured one now, for non slip.

I took all the wood out of my boat and replaced all with Seaboard!! Works with regular wood tools.

I have used it on the sides, floor tank covers, bulk heads, new hatch sliders. And I had enough to build a tackle locker which I love!!

All the red spots show Seaboard, my boat is a 1975 Wellcraft.

I turned this into this:

There is a place in Boston were I bought the stuff, here is the link, The prices have changed so you will have to call them, and ask about the textured stuff, they did not have it when I did mine.

going to be $$ but it cleans up fast, I don't find it slippery at all, it will never rot, and you can make all kinds of things with the left over!

http://www.jfreeman.com/cpg_seaboard.html

blaruffa · 01-30-2007, 10:14 AM

Nice workmanship.

ProfessorM · 01-30-2007, 10:43 AM

Thanks joe. I have thought of that. Just a little worried about cost. It should be as strong as plywood I would think. I probably would only need a 4x8 sheet and cut down the middle. Good idea.

ProfessorM · 01-30-2007, 11:15 AM

so 1/2" would be perfect for a light weight like me. Where did you purchase it from?

JohnR · 01-30-2007, 11:18 AM

Modern PLastics sometimes has Seaboard - they have locations from CT to Mass...

macojoe · 01-30-2007, 11:24 AM

hanks blaruffa!! I could not have done it all with out help form my buddy BigBo! He came over and helped be with everything!!
We even made a Anchor pulpit out of the stuff and it works great!!

there sheets are a little bigger then regular ply, 54" X 96" I can tell you I am 300+# and I can jump on the 3/4"!!

I used 3/4 on the floor covers and the front bulkheads, the side walls , dash, cutting board, tackle box and rear doors are all 3/8"

One sheet of 3/4 was $180 when I got it. Might be $200 now?? But you will never replace it ever!!

Get it here: http://www.jfreeman.com/cpg_seaboard.html

ProfessorM · 01-30-2007, 02:57 PM

thanks for your time . I may go this route. no more painting and replacing seems like a no brainer.

macojoe · 01-30-2007, 03:15 PM

What do you have for support under the ply??

1/2" Seaboard might flex to much, if you go to long a leanth with out some support?

3/4 might be what you need?

Also when you call them ask about the textured stuff they came out with.

http://www.jfreeman.com/cpg_seaboard.html

MakoMike · 01-30-2007, 03:29 PM

I was just readin a West marine pamphlet on starboard and they said it doesn't have the stregnth of plywood and therefore has to be supported much more closely than the plywood.

ProfessorM · 01-30-2007, 04:40 PM

Good point. For what I am using it for should be good. I am only 160 at best. It will only be 30" wide and 8' long. A main support goes down the middle, under the floor and ontop of the boat V shape and the sides of the floor attaches to each aluminum rib of the boat itself going down both sides of the length, every 15" or so. I am a little worried about slipping though.

macojoe · 01-30-2007, 04:44 PM

Mine are not that slippery, but it is just the covers, and I am fine all around.
Like I said call them and aske about the textured stuff, I have seen it and you won't slip!!

Stroth · 02-14-2007, 04:13 PM

I might be able to get my hands on a 1964 Starcraft 14' for very short money.

If I did get it, I would want a floor / casting deck on it.

Do you have to put in any type of supports before you put the plywood (or other material) for the floor / deck down? Or does the material just rest on the seats?

I have zero experience riveting, so I am looking for the easiest and cheapest way possible to put a deck on it...

MANY MANY THANKS

sTROTH

ProfessorM · 02-15-2007, 12:32 PM

If you are local to me come on by and check out my floor and how it is put in. Real simple and it is out of the boat right now. there is only one main support which runs the length of the boat. The side s are screwed to the ribs running side to side every 20 ". P.

Stroth · 02-15-2007, 07:44 PM

Prof. M:

Thanks for the offer, where are you located? I am in Ashland, MA. (Just a few miles east from the start of the Boston marathon)

It will be awhile before I can actually start working, but I am going to use the time to learn as much as I can about how to upgrade this boat.

THANKS!

Stroth

ProfessorM · 02-16-2007, 11:28 AM

I am in beautiful Lakeville, on the way to the Cape. I will take some photos for you before I put the floor back in this spring so you can get an idea of what i am talking about. Really is a very simple top do and well worth it. P.

Flaptail · 02-16-2007, 01:19 PM

Paul, your skiff is the same as mine. I took a 4'X8'x3/4" sheet of pt plywood and cut it right down the middle. 2 feet wide and 8 feet long.

With mask on I sanded the edges, primed with exterior primer and rolled 4 coats of Krylon Camo paint front back and sides.

Took 1 inch sheet metal screws and screwed right through it right into the floor ribs. Like a rock, very stable and no rot. Each spring I give it a topside touch up in camo. last spring I took the seats out and the floor and no rot yet on the floor. Just a quick sand and more paint. You can make a wider floor in that Mirrocraft but your level of your feet will be higher than the water line which makes your skiff more unstable.

Simple and it has worked really well for me. Seats are affixed to the floor with 1x1 al angle.

Hope that helps, after all it's only a skiff that is going to be covered in mashed sandeels and fish poo right?

ProfessorM · 02-16-2007, 05:05 PM

Mashed sandeels. LOL. God I miss that right about now. Did you ever lose an eel under the floor? I have used plywood for years and it works great. A new coat of paint every few years and good to go. Being short I don't have to worry as much about stability as a lanky guy like Steve so I opt for the wider floor., but just a little wider. I basically copied the original one .