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Old 11-28-2011, 12:08 PM   #1
Got Stripers
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Sears Snow Blower Question

Bought a new 26" last winter, used a few times and never had any issues. After the winter I ran the gas out of the thing and stored it under cover, figured I'd do the first oil change this spring. Well I through some gas in and get it set to go and can't budge the pull rope and the oil is very high and milky.

1. How the hell can that much water get into the engine under cover, I can't see that much being condensate?
2. Luckily I bought with a 3 year service contract, anyone had any issues with Sears backing this type of thing up?
3. I've never had issues running 4 stroke tillers and the like dry, then gassing up and running away, curious what others do to store blowers for the summer.
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:30 PM   #2
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I run my machines dry at the end of the season, I just ran my mower dry on saturday, I also emptied the bowl on the carb, disconnect the battery also, I need to get my snow thrower going this week, put fresh gas in it then start it up and let it run for an hour or so, I bet your glad you bought the extended warranty,
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:33 PM   #3
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Like you I generally run gas dry and leave old oil until next season (I just changed the oil Saturday), MTD with Tecumseh 10hp motor. I store mine dry in the shed. I think I've had this blower for about 8yrs now.

Started right up 2nd pull, didn't even have to use the electric start with it being so warm outside.

Given the diversity of the human species, there is no “normal” human genome sequence. We are all mutants.
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:14 PM   #4
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I add sta-bil every time I get gas. I leave what is left in the mower and have not had a problem. The small engine place I get my stuff from did tell me to change the oil at the end of the year so that the dirty oil doesn't get a chance to let the particles settle to the bottom over the winter as it can form a sludge. I guess it is a good point, why leave dirty oil in there all winter.....

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Old 11-28-2011, 03:32 PM   #5
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everything gets sta-bil all season.. and run out of fuel when the season is over..the oil should be changed at the end of the season.. reason being... the acids in unburned gasses in the crank case can corrode the aluminum block and put pits in the crank shaft and connectiong rods... most of those engines are not sleeved bearings and have little tolerance for wear of low grade oil..


a shot of mystery oil( or fogging agent ) in the spark plug hole and a slow pull to distribute it is not a bad idea either..

sears is pretty good with their power products.... they replaced two pumps on my pressure waher.. in the first two season I owned it... no questions.. no cost to me..

A good run is better than a bad stand!
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:50 PM   #6
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Blown head gasket? Most likely just condensation, though.

No, no, no. we’re 30… 30, three zero.
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Old 11-29-2011, 02:57 PM   #7
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Another 'Mystery' oil man
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Old 11-29-2011, 03:18 PM   #8
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Another 'Mystery' oil man
some of the finest oil ever produced... a mechanics best friend..

A good run is better than a bad stand!
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Old 11-29-2011, 03:19 PM   #9
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Blown head gasket? Most likely just condensation, though.
air cooled.... head gasket would cause lost of compression..little else...

A good run is better than a bad stand!
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Old 11-29-2011, 03:26 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Piscator View Post
I add sta-bil every time I get gas. I leave what is left in the mower and have not had a problem. The small engine place I get my stuff from did tell me to change the oil at the end of the year so that the dirty oil doesn't get a chance to let the particles settle to the bottom over the winter as it can form a sludge. I guess it is a good point, why leave dirty oil in there all winter.....
Interesting point my boat mechanic told me. Changes the oil in the fall at winterizing time because the old oil will have some acids build up and ultimately cause problems in the spring. Makes sense in a 4 stroke because we don't fog the motor so the oil will be clean at fire up.

No boat, back in the suds.
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:30 PM   #11
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Did you pull the spark plug out and try to pull it over? If there is that much condensation forming in the combustion chamber you may have hydrostatic lock. If so pull the starter rope, empty the cylinder of water and put back plug and try it.

Billy D.
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:17 PM   #12
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air cooled.... head gasket would cause lost of compression..little else...
I thought some used the briggs 3cylinder liquid cooled. However, I don't know much about snow blowers that aren't attached to tractors.

No, no, no. we’re 30… 30, three zero.
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:50 AM   #13
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yeah- try taking out the spark plug and see if it'll pull.... you may belch out a buncha condensation, or even gas if the carb is stuck in the "open" position. (thats less likely though...)
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:04 AM   #14
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With a service contract and a max $35 fee for plug, oil etc, I dumped it right back at the Sears store; but I might change the way I store this puppy. Back in the day when I was winter striper fishing, I ran my small 4-stroke every 2nd week and never had any issues; maybe running it every so often is better insurance.
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